The apple orchard and a savory squash, apple and quinoa crumble

It had been raining all day on our last day in Vermont. I loved the grey skies and how they brought out the intensity of the colors. Before heading home, Nadia had one more stop planned for us. We were to visit her good friend's orchards. It was the pinnacle of our trip. A farm filled with apple and plum trees, grape vines, raspberry bushes, horses and so much more we didn't get to see.

As soon as we arrived, the skies turned bright blue, clouds dissipated, leaving us with a beautiful summer-like afternoon. I knew how excited the kids would be to pick fruit right off the tree.



The orchard provides much more fruit than the family can consume and Nadia goes often to pick whatever they do not want. "Will they mind if we take some home with us?" I asked feeling a bit shy about taking from someone else's orchard. "Believe me, they are happy we are picking it" she replied.

So we went at it.

There were so many different varieties of apples. The intense dark plum skin on some really drew my attention. I had never seen apples quite that dark. Inside the flesh was white with streaks of pink. Absolutely gorgeous. Do you know which variety that might be?

We loaded a box with apples and plums that we brought back home with us. My mom made vanilla bean, cinnamon and lemon-flavored apple and plum jam as soon as we returned, which she is still enjoying every morning for breakfast.



Needless to say, I cooked a lot with apples last week. One of my favorites, this savory red kuri squash, apple and quinoa crumble with goat cheese, sage and parsley. We ate it with a green salad. It was lovely.

For dessert, one of my childhood favorites that is included in my upcoming cookbook. Gluten and dairy free vanilla and cardamom flavored natillas with sauteed apples. Natilla is a light custard that we grew up eating. My grandmother made it perfectly every time with raw milk and cinnamon. Always makes me think of her.



You can see Nadia's post with images from our visit on her blog. So beautiful.

Red kuri squash, apple and quinoa crumble

serves 4 to 6

Crumble topping

1/2 cup (70 g) superfine brown rice flour
1/2 cup (70 g) quinoa flour
1/2 cup (70 g) cold cooked quinoa
1/2 ounce (15 g) finely grated Idiazabal or Manchego cheese
3 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
6 tablespoons (90 ml) olive oil

In a bowl, whisk together the first six ingredients. Add olive oil and stir until a sand-like crumble forms.

Chill the crumble while preparing the filling.

Filling

2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 medium leek, thinly sliced
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 medium red kuri or hokkaido squash, peeled and diced (about 3 cups diced)
1 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
3 sage leaves, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
2 medium Gala apples, peeled and diced
3/4 cup (185 ml) chicken stock
1 ounce (30 g) goat cheese, crumbled

Preheat oven to 400F (200C)

In a large saute pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the leek and garlic. Cook for 5 minutes until tender, but not browned. Add the squash, parsley, sage, salt, pepper, and coriander. Increase heat to medium high and stir. Cook for 5 minutes stirring occasionally.

Add the chicken stock and cook for another 5 minutes. Add the apples and cook another 5 minutes until soft but not mushy.

Transfer the filling to a greased baking dish or individual over-proof bowls. Top with the crumble.

Bake the crumble until topping golden and filing bubbling, about 30 to 40 minutes for a larger dish and 20 minutes for individuals. Serve warm.

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The apple orchard and a savory squash, apple and quinoa crumble

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There Is Always Chocolate In The Summer

Summer is usually all about fruit for me. Peaches, apricots, cherries, melon, and a array of sweet and tart berries. I turn them into tarts, muffins, sorbets and ice cream... Sometimes even into savory dishes. But one can only stay away from chocolate for so long. I try, believe me -- with no result.







I spent a lot of time at home last week working on the finishing touches of the manuscript. "What is new?" you might be wondering. So does everyone else in my life.



"Maybe you should get some fresh air?" my mom tells me everyday over the phone. "Go for a walk and get some fresh air" I'm counting down the days when I get to do that with her.



One more week and I will be back home.







I have been revisiting some of the recipes in the book. Baking them over and over again and seeing that they work every time gives me a sense of peace. I can get very obsessive about details and when I think of a recipe that was tested a while ago, I tend to think "What if it doesn't work!". I panic. Then I jump into the kitchen.



Last week there were many chocolate recipes. I craved them. The intensity and richness.







I made my favorite dark chocolate and hazelnut cake. Very moist... almost the texture of a brownie. It works every time.



I also made chocolate pots de creme with raspberries and currants. You can find a similar recipe here. And with leftover chocolate tart dough, I made a chocolate, black and red raspberry, and currant galette.



I certainly got my fix.







In a few more days, I will be done. My manuscript will be in the hands of my editor and there will be a big sigh of relief (mine, of course). Then we will be off to the Basque Country for some quiet family time, food, and another Robin Food show.



But for now. I must return to my book.... with a slice of chocolate cake right next to me.

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There Is Always Chocolate In The Summer

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A Sour Cherry Gâteau Basque And The Berries We Brought Back From Vermont

I'm not the kind of person who buys souvenirs when I travel. I'm not much of a collector in general, except my props I suppose. I do not like trinkets on my shelves or clutter, but one thing I do love is to discover the foods of the region. I always bring something back.

When we visited the Brattelboro farmers' market in Vermont last weekend, I loaded up on all kind of berries.

Red currants are my weakness. So hard to find in Florida. I had to make sure to bring some home along with sour cherries and black raspberries.



I have been writing at night when the house is quiet.

I am two weeks away from turning in my manuscript. Completely submerged in writing and editing with hours spent in front of the computer. The kitchen becomes my getaway. My place of relaxation and even if it's preparing simple meals, it helps me clear my mind.

So when we returned from Vermont, I spent my free time baking with the berries I brought back home.



One of the pastry stands at the Brattleboro market had a very tempting gâteau basque on display (unfortunately not gluten-free). I turned to Nadia and said "I will be making it at home". And so I did.

The classic gâteau basque is a cross between a cake and a tart. Thick and tender shortdough encasing pastry cream and cherry preserves. (You can find a version I made years ago here).

My recipe is a gluten and dairy free version of the classic. Crunchy cake exterior with a creamy interior filled with pastry cream and fresh sour cherries. Everyone loved it.



I also made a red currant and sour cherry flan tart with leftover tart dough and custard for a recipe I was testing for the book. It was delicious as well. Anything with red currants is amazing in my book. I love the slight sour punch it adds to anything sweet.

There were also berry, ladyfinger and pastry cream verrines. I have had the ladyfingers in the freezer for a while after testing them for the book.

Freezer-cleaning desserts I call them.



I also wanted to tell you about a story I wrote a few weeks ago for one of my favorite allergen-free magazines, Living Without. The issue will not be out until October, but one of my photos for that issue has been selected for the cover (cover #1). You can vote here.

Hope you like it!

Gluten and Dairy Free Sour Cherry And Pastry Cream Gâteau Basque

Makes two 6-inch cakes

Pastry Cream

1 cup (250 ml) unsweetened coconut milk
2 cardamom pods, cracked
1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped
3 egg yolks
1/4 cup (50 g) natural cane sugar
2 tablespoons (15 g) cornstarch

Combine the coconut milk, cardamom, and vanilla bean in medium saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Remove from heat and steep for 10 minutes. Return back to heat and bring it back to a light simmer.

In the meantime, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, and cornstarch in a bowl. Strain the simmering milk over the yolks and whisk immediately so the eggs don't curdle. Return custard back to the pot and cook stirring constantly, over medium high heat until it thickens. Transfer the pastry cream to a clean bowl and cool.

Cake

1 cup (140 g) superfine brown rice flour
1/2 cup (70 g) millet flour
1/3 cup (35 g) almond flour
1/3 cup (55 g) potato starch
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
Zest of 1 lemon
3 eggs
1 1/4 cup (250 g) natural cane sugar
1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped
1/2 cup (125 ml) olive oil
1/4 cup (60 ml) unsweetened coconut milk
2 cups sour cherries, pitted

Pre-heat oven to 325F. Grease 2 (6-inch) cake pans. Line the bottom with parchment paper.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients. In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar, vanilla seeds, olive oil, and coconut milk. Pour the wet ingredients over the dry and whisk to combine.

Spread a quarter of the batter on the bottom of each cake pan. Spread evenly. Spread half of the pastry cream over it, then half of the sour cherries on top. Top with the remaining cake batter.

Bake the cakes for 1 hour until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Let the cakes cool in the pan for 15 minutes. Invert onto a cooling rack and cool completely.

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A Sour Cherry Gâteau Basque And The Berries We Brought Back From Vermont

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A Day With Apricots And A Few Days Off

I woke up Friday morning feeling lighter.

"Did you know I am finished photographing all the recipes from the book?" I asked C. Yes, I was. I am. And it feels wonderful. I am sure as time passes and I revisit the same recipes and images over and over again, there will be many changes I will want to make, but for not, this is it.

I still have quite a bit of writing to do, but as of this week, I am a month away from turning in my manuscript. I can't even tell you how exciting that is for me.



When I woke up Friday, I decided my weekend would start early. C. and Jon had made plans on their own, so I was going to have Miren all to myself. We were going to have alone time, which doesn't happen often.



We took a walk to the park early, before the scourging sun made an appearance. Unfortunately, that didn't last very long. The heat forced us back inside.

I prepared a light pea soup (a variation of this one) that we ate with Idiazabal and radish tartines.

"Miren, jaten!" I let her know. It was time to come to the table for lunch. She runs and climbs on her chair ready to eat.



In the afternoon, as she napped, I made a batch of shortbreads, coconut rice pudding, and this gluten and dairy free apricot and pistachio clafoutis.

I took time to photograph and organize all my images while I listened to music (obsessing over this as of late). It was nice and quiet, just what I needed.

"Ama!" I heard coming from upstairs. Miren was up. She was ready for my clafoutis.



This week, the kids and I are flying to Vermont to see my friend Nadia and her new farm. There will be fresh air, beautiful scenery, and lots of blueberry picking. I cannot wait.

I will be back soon.

Enjoy.



Gluten and Dairy Free Apricot and Pistachio Clafoutis

Makes a 10-inch deep dish

1/4 cup (40 g) shelled and unsalted pistachios
3 tablespoons (25 g) cornstarch
3 eggs
1/2 cup (100 g) natural cane sugar
1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped
1 1/4 cup unsweetened full-fat coconut milk
1 tablespoon melted ghee or coconut oil
6 apricots, halved and pit removed

Preheat oven to 400F (200C). Grind the pistachios and 1 tablespoon of cornstarch together in the food processor to a fine powder.

Whisk together the eggs, sugar, and vanilla seeds. Whisk in the pistachio powder and rest of cornstarch until smooth. Add coconut milk and melted ghee.

Grease your dish. Arrange the apricot halves around the dish and pour custard over.

Bake for 30 minutes or until center is set.

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A Day With Apricots And A Few Days Off

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The Season of Cherries

I came back from BlogHer Food in Atlanta Sunday afternoon. I wish I had a detailed report for you guys, but the truth is that I really was unable to attend most events and festivities. It was great to catch up with friends and also finally meet those who I have come to know through blogging.

Tami, Stephanie and I spoke in the visuals panel where we discussed our own evolutions and philosophy when finding our voices and styles. I thoroughly enjoyed the experience and I think we could have gone on for another few hours had we been given the time. There were lots of questions and positive feedback and I happened to learn lots myself.



As soon as I walked in the door, I remembered the large bowl of cherries I left in the refrigerator before I left. I was in desperate need of something refreshing and light. I dropped my bags and started slicing fennel, cucumber and spring onions. Also added some pitted cherries and made a quick vinaigrette with apple cider vinegar.

It hit the spot.

"Where are you guys?" I texted C. "Still swimming" he replied.

Then I knew I would have time for a quick dessert for dinner and perhaps, even a nap.



I turned to this gluten and dairy free cherry and cardamom custard I had made a few days before. Somewhere in between a clafoutis and a flan, this custard is made with coconut and almond milk that are flavored with vanilla bean, lemon zest, and cardamom. I loved it the first time I made it and I knew everyone would enjoy it again.

Once it came out of the oven, I took Miren to my bed and whispered "We are going lo-lo". She understood and immediately closed her eyes.

I needed that.



Jon was excited to have his sister back. "I missed her amatxu!" he acknowledged. He picked up a bowl of the cherry cardamom custard and proceeded to tell me all about his weekend.

There are never enough words when you are 4 years old...

Almost 5.



Cherry and Cardamom Custard

1 pound (450 g) bing cherries, pitted
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) coconut milk
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) almond milk
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped
4 cardamom pods, cracked
4 eggs
1/2 cup plus 2 Tbs (125 g) natural cane sugar
1/2 cup (70 g) superfine brown rice flour
1/4 cup (40 g) potato starch
2 Tbs (12 g) almond flour
1/4 tsp salt

Preheat oven to 425F. Grease a 9" pie or cake pan. Pit the cherries and arrange them in the pan.

In a small saucepan, combine the coconut milk, almond milk, vanilla bean and seeds, and cardamom pods. Bring to a light simmer, turn heat off, and let it steep for 5 minutes.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar, brown rice flour, potato starch, almond flour, and salt. Place a fine sieve on top of the bowl. Pour the warm milk mixture over the eggs so that the strainer catches the pods and vanilla bean. Whisk all ingredients together. Skim any foam that might have formed on the surface and pour the custard over the cherries.

Bake at 425F for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 350F and bake another 25-30 minutes until center set.

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The Season of Cherries

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