Where the Apple Trees Are

There are those things in our lives that we take for granted. Things that surround us and we barely notice as we walk by. We go on with our lives and as we grow older and move away, we feel this void. We cannot pinpoint what it is, but we feel anxious as though something is missing. A void and a longing.

For me that feeling comes back every late summer and into autumn when I dream of the apple trees of my childhood.



I grew up surrounded by natural beauty. Raw, tangled, mossy, glistening natural beauty. River streams lined with beech and hazelnut trees, fig trees on the side of the road, blackberry bushes poking through the schoolyard fence, wild apple trees that belong to no one and to everyone -- treasures everywhere.

I never really appreciated this until I moved away and realized that not many have experienced such wilderness around them. Today, living in Florida, I feel all these elements are a luxury in life and so hard to come by.



"You cannot imagine how much I miss seeing these trees" I mentioned to my dad as we were driving around the countryside. I sat on the passenger seat while Miren napped in the back. "I know exactly where to take you" my dad replied. Five minutes later we pulled into Uxarte Sagardotegia right outside of town. It is an old farmhouse turned cider-house and restaurant. The owner's wife was actually my kindergarten teacher so we know the family well. Their property is filled with different varieties of apple, pears, and hazelnut trees. All the cider is pressed right on their property from the apples in their backyard. It is remarkable.

Late August is the month of pink apples. Row after row of trees with red apples glistening in the afternoon sun -- such a beautiful sight. The Reinetas, which are actually my favorite baking variety, come a bit later in September, but they were already ripening.

We walked around amongst the trees. Miren who had just woken up jumped out of the car and ran towards the field. She knew exactly what to do and didn't waste any time. She sat on the grass surrounded by apples -- she smiled like a kid in a candy store.



That same evening we visited my uncle Javi. The sun was setting and his sheep were out in the pasture for one last feeding. All the little cousins had gathered that afternoon. While they played, I took a walk alone to the apple orchard -- almost storybook scenery. Pink apple trees in the middle of a sea of dandelions, wild mint, and other wildflowers. "I could live right here -- in this same spot" I thought to myself.

I picked some apples for us. I had ideas of what to make with them, of course. I wait for this moment all year long. Back at my parents, I baked a roasted apple and prune cake with yogurt and olive oil -- a slight variation of this one. My brother Jokin was craving our childhood cake and how could I say no, right? the cake was gone that same night.



Since we returned back to Florida, I have been obsessed with apples. Impossible to find the heirloom varieties that we had back home, but still very excited about them as they are the first fruit of autumn.

I cooked a carrot and apple soup flavored with cumin, coriander, and piment d'Espelette I brought back from our trip.

Also a shaved fennel, apple, watercress, and hazelnut salad with scallops and a simple vinaigrette flavored with hazelnut oil.

But of course, what I was excited about was what I was going to make for dessert. I baked an apple cake from my upcoming book, which is great every time. Also from the book a clafoutis, and my latest obsession, roasted apple and brown butter madeleines.



I roasted the apples in a little bit of butter, sugar, and vanilla beans until tender and then pureed it into thick applesauce. This goes into the madeleine batter along with brown butter and hazelnut flour.

I baked them in batches so we could enjoy them warm out of the oven with a little dusting of powdered sugar. I cannot wait until I make my next batch.



Carrot and Apple Soup with Cumin and Coriander

Serves 4 to 6

2 tbs olive oil
1 large shallot, peeled and minced
1 garlic clove, peeled and minced
1 lb (450 g) carrots, peeled and diced
2 Gala apples, peeled, cored and diced
3 sprigs thyme leaves
3/4 tsp salt
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp ground coriander
1/8 to 1/4 tsp piment d'Espelette
2 3/4 cups chicken stock
1/2 cup unsweetened coconut milk

In a stock pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the shallot, garlic and carrots. Cook for 5 minutes. Add the apple, thyme, salt, cumin, coriander and piment d'Espelette. Stir and cook for 1 minute.

Add the chicken stock, bring liquid to a boil, reduce heat to medium low, cover the pot, and cook for 15 minutes ot until the vegetables are tender. Puree with a blender. Add coconut milk and adjust seasoning if needed.

Brown Butter and Roasted Apple Madeleines

Makes 20 large madeleines

Roasted Apples

3 small Gala apples, peeled, cored and sliced into 1-inch pieces
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped
1 tbs natural cane sugar
1 tab unsalted butter

Combine all ingredients in a baking dish. Bake at 400F for 20 to 25 minutes until the apples are soft and slightly caramelized. Puree them in the food processor.

Brown Butter and Roasted Apple Madeleines

7 tbs (100 g) unsalted butter
1/2 cup (70 g) superfine brown rice flour
1/4 cup (35 g) quinoa flour
1/4 cup (25 g) hazelnut flour
1 tsp baking powder
1/8 tsp salt
1/8 tsp xanthan gum (optional. makes the madeleines keep more of their volume when baked)
2 eggs
1/2 cup plus 2 tbs (125 g) natural cane sugar
1/2 cup (140 g) roasted apple puree

Heat the butter in a small saucepan over medium high heat until milk solids start to brown. Strain through a fine sieve and set aside to cool.

In a small bowl, whisk together the superfine brown rice flour, quinoa flour, hazelnut flour, baking powder, salt, and xanthan gum.

In the bowl of a stand mixer, whip the eggs and sugar on high speed for 5 minutes until light and thick. Add the dry ingredients and mix on low speed until combined. Add the brown butter and roasted apple puree and mix until combined. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap making sure the plastic touches the batter. This will ensure no skim forms on top.

Chill the batter for 2 hours. Spoon the batter into greased madeleine pan. Chill this pan again while we preheat the oven.

Preheat oven to 425F. Bake madeleines for 12 to 15 minutes. Do not open the oven during the first 10 minutes.

Let them cool in the pan for 5 minutes, then transfer them to a cooling rack.

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Where the Apple Trees Are

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https://mercymadame.blogspot.com/2011/09/where-apple-trees-are.html

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There Is Always Chocolate In The Summer

Summer is usually all about fruit for me. Peaches, apricots, cherries, melon, and a array of sweet and tart berries. I turn them into tarts, muffins, sorbets and ice cream... Sometimes even into savory dishes. But one can only stay away from chocolate for so long. I try, believe me -- with no result.







I spent a lot of time at home last week working on the finishing touches of the manuscript. "What is new?" you might be wondering. So does everyone else in my life.



"Maybe you should get some fresh air?" my mom tells me everyday over the phone. "Go for a walk and get some fresh air" I'm counting down the days when I get to do that with her.



One more week and I will be back home.







I have been revisiting some of the recipes in the book. Baking them over and over again and seeing that they work every time gives me a sense of peace. I can get very obsessive about details and when I think of a recipe that was tested a while ago, I tend to think "What if it doesn't work!". I panic. Then I jump into the kitchen.



Last week there were many chocolate recipes. I craved them. The intensity and richness.







I made my favorite dark chocolate and hazelnut cake. Very moist... almost the texture of a brownie. It works every time.



I also made chocolate pots de creme with raspberries and currants. You can find a similar recipe here. And with leftover chocolate tart dough, I made a chocolate, black and red raspberry, and currant galette.



I certainly got my fix.







In a few more days, I will be done. My manuscript will be in the hands of my editor and there will be a big sigh of relief (mine, of course). Then we will be off to the Basque Country for some quiet family time, food, and another Robin Food show.



But for now. I must return to my book.... with a slice of chocolate cake right next to me.

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There Is Always Chocolate In The Summer

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A Sour Cherry Gâteau Basque And The Berries We Brought Back From Vermont

I'm not the kind of person who buys souvenirs when I travel. I'm not much of a collector in general, except my props I suppose. I do not like trinkets on my shelves or clutter, but one thing I do love is to discover the foods of the region. I always bring something back.

When we visited the Brattelboro farmers' market in Vermont last weekend, I loaded up on all kind of berries.

Red currants are my weakness. So hard to find in Florida. I had to make sure to bring some home along with sour cherries and black raspberries.



I have been writing at night when the house is quiet.

I am two weeks away from turning in my manuscript. Completely submerged in writing and editing with hours spent in front of the computer. The kitchen becomes my getaway. My place of relaxation and even if it's preparing simple meals, it helps me clear my mind.

So when we returned from Vermont, I spent my free time baking with the berries I brought back home.



One of the pastry stands at the Brattleboro market had a very tempting gâteau basque on display (unfortunately not gluten-free). I turned to Nadia and said "I will be making it at home". And so I did.

The classic gâteau basque is a cross between a cake and a tart. Thick and tender shortdough encasing pastry cream and cherry preserves. (You can find a version I made years ago here).

My recipe is a gluten and dairy free version of the classic. Crunchy cake exterior with a creamy interior filled with pastry cream and fresh sour cherries. Everyone loved it.



I also made a red currant and sour cherry flan tart with leftover tart dough and custard for a recipe I was testing for the book. It was delicious as well. Anything with red currants is amazing in my book. I love the slight sour punch it adds to anything sweet.

There were also berry, ladyfinger and pastry cream verrines. I have had the ladyfingers in the freezer for a while after testing them for the book.

Freezer-cleaning desserts I call them.



I also wanted to tell you about a story I wrote a few weeks ago for one of my favorite allergen-free magazines, Living Without. The issue will not be out until October, but one of my photos for that issue has been selected for the cover (cover #1). You can vote here.

Hope you like it!

Gluten and Dairy Free Sour Cherry And Pastry Cream Gâteau Basque

Makes two 6-inch cakes

Pastry Cream

1 cup (250 ml) unsweetened coconut milk
2 cardamom pods, cracked
1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped
3 egg yolks
1/4 cup (50 g) natural cane sugar
2 tablespoons (15 g) cornstarch

Combine the coconut milk, cardamom, and vanilla bean in medium saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Remove from heat and steep for 10 minutes. Return back to heat and bring it back to a light simmer.

In the meantime, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, and cornstarch in a bowl. Strain the simmering milk over the yolks and whisk immediately so the eggs don't curdle. Return custard back to the pot and cook stirring constantly, over medium high heat until it thickens. Transfer the pastry cream to a clean bowl and cool.

Cake

1 cup (140 g) superfine brown rice flour
1/2 cup (70 g) millet flour
1/3 cup (35 g) almond flour
1/3 cup (55 g) potato starch
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
Zest of 1 lemon
3 eggs
1 1/4 cup (250 g) natural cane sugar
1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped
1/2 cup (125 ml) olive oil
1/4 cup (60 ml) unsweetened coconut milk
2 cups sour cherries, pitted

Pre-heat oven to 325F. Grease 2 (6-inch) cake pans. Line the bottom with parchment paper.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients. In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar, vanilla seeds, olive oil, and coconut milk. Pour the wet ingredients over the dry and whisk to combine.

Spread a quarter of the batter on the bottom of each cake pan. Spread evenly. Spread half of the pastry cream over it, then half of the sour cherries on top. Top with the remaining cake batter.

Bake the cakes for 1 hour until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Let the cakes cool in the pan for 15 minutes. Invert onto a cooling rack and cool completely.

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A Sour Cherry Gâteau Basque And The Berries We Brought Back From Vermont

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The Season of Cherries

I came back from BlogHer Food in Atlanta Sunday afternoon. I wish I had a detailed report for you guys, but the truth is that I really was unable to attend most events and festivities. It was great to catch up with friends and also finally meet those who I have come to know through blogging.

Tami, Stephanie and I spoke in the visuals panel where we discussed our own evolutions and philosophy when finding our voices and styles. I thoroughly enjoyed the experience and I think we could have gone on for another few hours had we been given the time. There were lots of questions and positive feedback and I happened to learn lots myself.



As soon as I walked in the door, I remembered the large bowl of cherries I left in the refrigerator before I left. I was in desperate need of something refreshing and light. I dropped my bags and started slicing fennel, cucumber and spring onions. Also added some pitted cherries and made a quick vinaigrette with apple cider vinegar.

It hit the spot.

"Where are you guys?" I texted C. "Still swimming" he replied.

Then I knew I would have time for a quick dessert for dinner and perhaps, even a nap.



I turned to this gluten and dairy free cherry and cardamom custard I had made a few days before. Somewhere in between a clafoutis and a flan, this custard is made with coconut and almond milk that are flavored with vanilla bean, lemon zest, and cardamom. I loved it the first time I made it and I knew everyone would enjoy it again.

Once it came out of the oven, I took Miren to my bed and whispered "We are going lo-lo". She understood and immediately closed her eyes.

I needed that.



Jon was excited to have his sister back. "I missed her amatxu!" he acknowledged. He picked up a bowl of the cherry cardamom custard and proceeded to tell me all about his weekend.

There are never enough words when you are 4 years old...

Almost 5.



Cherry and Cardamom Custard

1 pound (450 g) bing cherries, pitted
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) coconut milk
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) almond milk
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped
4 cardamom pods, cracked
4 eggs
1/2 cup plus 2 Tbs (125 g) natural cane sugar
1/2 cup (70 g) superfine brown rice flour
1/4 cup (40 g) potato starch
2 Tbs (12 g) almond flour
1/4 tsp salt

Preheat oven to 425F. Grease a 9" pie or cake pan. Pit the cherries and arrange them in the pan.

In a small saucepan, combine the coconut milk, almond milk, vanilla bean and seeds, and cardamom pods. Bring to a light simmer, turn heat off, and let it steep for 5 minutes.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar, brown rice flour, potato starch, almond flour, and salt. Place a fine sieve on top of the bowl. Pour the warm milk mixture over the eggs so that the strainer catches the pods and vanilla bean. Whisk all ingredients together. Skim any foam that might have formed on the surface and pour the custard over the cherries.

Bake at 425F for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 350F and bake another 25-30 minutes until center set.

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The Season of Cherries

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