The apple orchard and a savory squash, apple and quinoa crumble

It had been raining all day on our last day in Vermont. I loved the grey skies and how they brought out the intensity of the colors. Before heading home, Nadia had one more stop planned for us. We were to visit her good friend's orchards. It was the pinnacle of our trip. A farm filled with apple and plum trees, grape vines, raspberry bushes, horses and so much more we didn't get to see.

As soon as we arrived, the skies turned bright blue, clouds dissipated, leaving us with a beautiful summer-like afternoon. I knew how excited the kids would be to pick fruit right off the tree.



The orchard provides much more fruit than the family can consume and Nadia goes often to pick whatever they do not want. "Will they mind if we take some home with us?" I asked feeling a bit shy about taking from someone else's orchard. "Believe me, they are happy we are picking it" she replied.

So we went at it.

There were so many different varieties of apples. The intense dark plum skin on some really drew my attention. I had never seen apples quite that dark. Inside the flesh was white with streaks of pink. Absolutely gorgeous. Do you know which variety that might be?

We loaded a box with apples and plums that we brought back home with us. My mom made vanilla bean, cinnamon and lemon-flavored apple and plum jam as soon as we returned, which she is still enjoying every morning for breakfast.



Needless to say, I cooked a lot with apples last week. One of my favorites, this savory red kuri squash, apple and quinoa crumble with goat cheese, sage and parsley. We ate it with a green salad. It was lovely.

For dessert, one of my childhood favorites that is included in my upcoming cookbook. Gluten and dairy free vanilla and cardamom flavored natillas with sauteed apples. Natilla is a light custard that we grew up eating. My grandmother made it perfectly every time with raw milk and cinnamon. Always makes me think of her.



You can see Nadia's post with images from our visit on her blog. So beautiful.

Red kuri squash, apple and quinoa crumble

serves 4 to 6

Crumble topping

1/2 cup (70 g) superfine brown rice flour
1/2 cup (70 g) quinoa flour
1/2 cup (70 g) cold cooked quinoa
1/2 ounce (15 g) finely grated Idiazabal or Manchego cheese
3 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
6 tablespoons (90 ml) olive oil

In a bowl, whisk together the first six ingredients. Add olive oil and stir until a sand-like crumble forms.

Chill the crumble while preparing the filling.

Filling

2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 medium leek, thinly sliced
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 medium red kuri or hokkaido squash, peeled and diced (about 3 cups diced)
1 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
3 sage leaves, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
2 medium Gala apples, peeled and diced
3/4 cup (185 ml) chicken stock
1 ounce (30 g) goat cheese, crumbled

Preheat oven to 400F (200C)

In a large saute pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the leek and garlic. Cook for 5 minutes until tender, but not browned. Add the squash, parsley, sage, salt, pepper, and coriander. Increase heat to medium high and stir. Cook for 5 minutes stirring occasionally.

Add the chicken stock and cook for another 5 minutes. Add the apples and cook another 5 minutes until soft but not mushy.

Transfer the filling to a greased baking dish or individual over-proof bowls. Top with the crumble.

Bake the crumble until topping golden and filing bubbling, about 30 to 40 minutes for a larger dish and 20 minutes for individuals. Serve warm.

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The apple orchard and a savory squash, apple and quinoa crumble

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The autumn light and colors of Vermont

Ever since our time in Vermont this summer, I have been dreaming about returning. "You would love it so much", I told my dad over the phone. He loves nature like I do. Rivers and forests are where he feels most at ease, so I knew it would be a gift to him to spend time there. I asked Nadia if we could visit once again to witness the foliage and quickly made arrangements for our trip.

I took the kids and my parents during what has to be the most beautiful time of the year. No question about it.



Nadia and I had just arrived from our workshop in France. I had two days to recover, but Nadia had literally gotten off the plane when she came to pick us at the airport. "You must be exhausted" is the first thing I said to her. She smiled. I knew she was, but it was good exhaustion. She was beaming.

As soon as we left the airport, I realized we had arrived at the peak of foliage. We couldn't have picked a better time.

"Stop, stop right there" I shouted. I couldn't believe my eyes. Fire-colored trees lined by a lake on the side of the road made the most beautiful sight. We jumped off the car and ran to admire it. Breathtaking.



The kids played with the dogs and fed the chickens and ducks. We took walks every morning stopping every minute to take it all in. My dad and I took over two thousand images of foliage, rivers and children playing.

"When will we go to the pumpkin patch?" Jon asked over and over again. That was the one thing that he really wanted to do. "Don't worry. There will be plenty" Nadia reassured him. There were indeed. We visited a different pumpkin patch every day and they loved it.

Rolled around the dried yellow leaves and laughed hard.



We visited the Middlebury farmers' market on a Wednesday. Also stopped at Nadia's friend Ethan Mitchell's family farm where three generations live surrounded by trees and thirty sheep. I left so inspired once again.

As we were driving around, Nadia pointed out the rivers and areas that had been affected by hurricane Irene. The damage was visible, but things were slowly coming back to normal. I saw the devastation in Williamstown where we had spent time this summer.



Nadia cooked for us everyday. Red kuri squash and leek soup, roasted chicken with root vegetables, quinoa spaghetti with roasted squash and herbs, banana and quinoa bread and apple crisp with the apples we picked at her friend's orchard. We were so thankful for everything she did for us.

My parents left eternally grateful and happy to know that I do indeed have great friends. I even spotted a tear in my mom's eye when she hugged Nadia goodbye. They were touched by her.



So I left ready to come back. Another season perhaps.

Vermont has stolen my heart.





Thank you Nadia once again for your generosity and hospitality. We can't wait to come back. Oh and Nadia... Jon is still waiting for his slingshot. He loves you.

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The autumn light and colors of Vermont

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What I could eat for the rest of my life

This morning I was answering some questions for an upcoming interview and the following question arose. "What would you eat if you could only eat one thing for the rest of your life?" I thought about it. I debated whether it would be lentils, avocado, eggs, or chocolate. Then I glanced over at our dining room table and saw a basket full of apples.

"Apples!"

For now, without a doubt, if I could only eat one thing for the rest of my life it would be these apples. The apples we picked and brought back with us from Vermont.

And you? What would you eat for the rest of your life?

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What I could eat for the rest of my life

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Where the Apple Trees Are

There are those things in our lives that we take for granted. Things that surround us and we barely notice as we walk by. We go on with our lives and as we grow older and move away, we feel this void. We cannot pinpoint what it is, but we feel anxious as though something is missing. A void and a longing.

For me that feeling comes back every late summer and into autumn when I dream of the apple trees of my childhood.



I grew up surrounded by natural beauty. Raw, tangled, mossy, glistening natural beauty. River streams lined with beech and hazelnut trees, fig trees on the side of the road, blackberry bushes poking through the schoolyard fence, wild apple trees that belong to no one and to everyone -- treasures everywhere.

I never really appreciated this until I moved away and realized that not many have experienced such wilderness around them. Today, living in Florida, I feel all these elements are a luxury in life and so hard to come by.



"You cannot imagine how much I miss seeing these trees" I mentioned to my dad as we were driving around the countryside. I sat on the passenger seat while Miren napped in the back. "I know exactly where to take you" my dad replied. Five minutes later we pulled into Uxarte Sagardotegia right outside of town. It is an old farmhouse turned cider-house and restaurant. The owner's wife was actually my kindergarten teacher so we know the family well. Their property is filled with different varieties of apple, pears, and hazelnut trees. All the cider is pressed right on their property from the apples in their backyard. It is remarkable.

Late August is the month of pink apples. Row after row of trees with red apples glistening in the afternoon sun -- such a beautiful sight. The Reinetas, which are actually my favorite baking variety, come a bit later in September, but they were already ripening.

We walked around amongst the trees. Miren who had just woken up jumped out of the car and ran towards the field. She knew exactly what to do and didn't waste any time. She sat on the grass surrounded by apples -- she smiled like a kid in a candy store.



That same evening we visited my uncle Javi. The sun was setting and his sheep were out in the pasture for one last feeding. All the little cousins had gathered that afternoon. While they played, I took a walk alone to the apple orchard -- almost storybook scenery. Pink apple trees in the middle of a sea of dandelions, wild mint, and other wildflowers. "I could live right here -- in this same spot" I thought to myself.

I picked some apples for us. I had ideas of what to make with them, of course. I wait for this moment all year long. Back at my parents, I baked a roasted apple and prune cake with yogurt and olive oil -- a slight variation of this one. My brother Jokin was craving our childhood cake and how could I say no, right? the cake was gone that same night.



Since we returned back to Florida, I have been obsessed with apples. Impossible to find the heirloom varieties that we had back home, but still very excited about them as they are the first fruit of autumn.

I cooked a carrot and apple soup flavored with cumin, coriander, and piment d'Espelette I brought back from our trip.

Also a shaved fennel, apple, watercress, and hazelnut salad with scallops and a simple vinaigrette flavored with hazelnut oil.

But of course, what I was excited about was what I was going to make for dessert. I baked an apple cake from my upcoming book, which is great every time. Also from the book a clafoutis, and my latest obsession, roasted apple and brown butter madeleines.



I roasted the apples in a little bit of butter, sugar, and vanilla beans until tender and then pureed it into thick applesauce. This goes into the madeleine batter along with brown butter and hazelnut flour.

I baked them in batches so we could enjoy them warm out of the oven with a little dusting of powdered sugar. I cannot wait until I make my next batch.



Carrot and Apple Soup with Cumin and Coriander

Serves 4 to 6

2 tbs olive oil
1 large shallot, peeled and minced
1 garlic clove, peeled and minced
1 lb (450 g) carrots, peeled and diced
2 Gala apples, peeled, cored and diced
3 sprigs thyme leaves
3/4 tsp salt
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp ground coriander
1/8 to 1/4 tsp piment d'Espelette
2 3/4 cups chicken stock
1/2 cup unsweetened coconut milk

In a stock pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the shallot, garlic and carrots. Cook for 5 minutes. Add the apple, thyme, salt, cumin, coriander and piment d'Espelette. Stir and cook for 1 minute.

Add the chicken stock, bring liquid to a boil, reduce heat to medium low, cover the pot, and cook for 15 minutes ot until the vegetables are tender. Puree with a blender. Add coconut milk and adjust seasoning if needed.

Brown Butter and Roasted Apple Madeleines

Makes 20 large madeleines

Roasted Apples

3 small Gala apples, peeled, cored and sliced into 1-inch pieces
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped
1 tbs natural cane sugar
1 tab unsalted butter

Combine all ingredients in a baking dish. Bake at 400F for 20 to 25 minutes until the apples are soft and slightly caramelized. Puree them in the food processor.

Brown Butter and Roasted Apple Madeleines

7 tbs (100 g) unsalted butter
1/2 cup (70 g) superfine brown rice flour
1/4 cup (35 g) quinoa flour
1/4 cup (25 g) hazelnut flour
1 tsp baking powder
1/8 tsp salt
1/8 tsp xanthan gum (optional. makes the madeleines keep more of their volume when baked)
2 eggs
1/2 cup plus 2 tbs (125 g) natural cane sugar
1/2 cup (140 g) roasted apple puree

Heat the butter in a small saucepan over medium high heat until milk solids start to brown. Strain through a fine sieve and set aside to cool.

In a small bowl, whisk together the superfine brown rice flour, quinoa flour, hazelnut flour, baking powder, salt, and xanthan gum.

In the bowl of a stand mixer, whip the eggs and sugar on high speed for 5 minutes until light and thick. Add the dry ingredients and mix on low speed until combined. Add the brown butter and roasted apple puree and mix until combined. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap making sure the plastic touches the batter. This will ensure no skim forms on top.

Chill the batter for 2 hours. Spoon the batter into greased madeleine pan. Chill this pan again while we preheat the oven.

Preheat oven to 425F. Bake madeleines for 12 to 15 minutes. Do not open the oven during the first 10 minutes.

Let them cool in the pan for 5 minutes, then transfer them to a cooling rack.

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Where the Apple Trees Are

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