Where the Apple Trees Are

There are those things in our lives that we take for granted. Things that surround us and we barely notice as we walk by. We go on with our lives and as we grow older and move away, we feel this void. We cannot pinpoint what it is, but we feel anxious as though something is missing. A void and a longing.

For me that feeling comes back every late summer and into autumn when I dream of the apple trees of my childhood.



I grew up surrounded by natural beauty. Raw, tangled, mossy, glistening natural beauty. River streams lined with beech and hazelnut trees, fig trees on the side of the road, blackberry bushes poking through the schoolyard fence, wild apple trees that belong to no one and to everyone -- treasures everywhere.

I never really appreciated this until I moved away and realized that not many have experienced such wilderness around them. Today, living in Florida, I feel all these elements are a luxury in life and so hard to come by.



"You cannot imagine how much I miss seeing these trees" I mentioned to my dad as we were driving around the countryside. I sat on the passenger seat while Miren napped in the back. "I know exactly where to take you" my dad replied. Five minutes later we pulled into Uxarte Sagardotegia right outside of town. It is an old farmhouse turned cider-house and restaurant. The owner's wife was actually my kindergarten teacher so we know the family well. Their property is filled with different varieties of apple, pears, and hazelnut trees. All the cider is pressed right on their property from the apples in their backyard. It is remarkable.

Late August is the month of pink apples. Row after row of trees with red apples glistening in the afternoon sun -- such a beautiful sight. The Reinetas, which are actually my favorite baking variety, come a bit later in September, but they were already ripening.

We walked around amongst the trees. Miren who had just woken up jumped out of the car and ran towards the field. She knew exactly what to do and didn't waste any time. She sat on the grass surrounded by apples -- she smiled like a kid in a candy store.



That same evening we visited my uncle Javi. The sun was setting and his sheep were out in the pasture for one last feeding. All the little cousins had gathered that afternoon. While they played, I took a walk alone to the apple orchard -- almost storybook scenery. Pink apple trees in the middle of a sea of dandelions, wild mint, and other wildflowers. "I could live right here -- in this same spot" I thought to myself.

I picked some apples for us. I had ideas of what to make with them, of course. I wait for this moment all year long. Back at my parents, I baked a roasted apple and prune cake with yogurt and olive oil -- a slight variation of this one. My brother Jokin was craving our childhood cake and how could I say no, right? the cake was gone that same night.



Since we returned back to Florida, I have been obsessed with apples. Impossible to find the heirloom varieties that we had back home, but still very excited about them as they are the first fruit of autumn.

I cooked a carrot and apple soup flavored with cumin, coriander, and piment d'Espelette I brought back from our trip.

Also a shaved fennel, apple, watercress, and hazelnut salad with scallops and a simple vinaigrette flavored with hazelnut oil.

But of course, what I was excited about was what I was going to make for dessert. I baked an apple cake from my upcoming book, which is great every time. Also from the book a clafoutis, and my latest obsession, roasted apple and brown butter madeleines.



I roasted the apples in a little bit of butter, sugar, and vanilla beans until tender and then pureed it into thick applesauce. This goes into the madeleine batter along with brown butter and hazelnut flour.

I baked them in batches so we could enjoy them warm out of the oven with a little dusting of powdered sugar. I cannot wait until I make my next batch.



Carrot and Apple Soup with Cumin and Coriander

Serves 4 to 6

2 tbs olive oil
1 large shallot, peeled and minced
1 garlic clove, peeled and minced
1 lb (450 g) carrots, peeled and diced
2 Gala apples, peeled, cored and diced
3 sprigs thyme leaves
3/4 tsp salt
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp ground coriander
1/8 to 1/4 tsp piment d'Espelette
2 3/4 cups chicken stock
1/2 cup unsweetened coconut milk

In a stock pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the shallot, garlic and carrots. Cook for 5 minutes. Add the apple, thyme, salt, cumin, coriander and piment d'Espelette. Stir and cook for 1 minute.

Add the chicken stock, bring liquid to a boil, reduce heat to medium low, cover the pot, and cook for 15 minutes ot until the vegetables are tender. Puree with a blender. Add coconut milk and adjust seasoning if needed.

Brown Butter and Roasted Apple Madeleines

Makes 20 large madeleines

Roasted Apples

3 small Gala apples, peeled, cored and sliced into 1-inch pieces
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped
1 tbs natural cane sugar
1 tab unsalted butter

Combine all ingredients in a baking dish. Bake at 400F for 20 to 25 minutes until the apples are soft and slightly caramelized. Puree them in the food processor.

Brown Butter and Roasted Apple Madeleines

7 tbs (100 g) unsalted butter
1/2 cup (70 g) superfine brown rice flour
1/4 cup (35 g) quinoa flour
1/4 cup (25 g) hazelnut flour
1 tsp baking powder
1/8 tsp salt
1/8 tsp xanthan gum (optional. makes the madeleines keep more of their volume when baked)
2 eggs
1/2 cup plus 2 tbs (125 g) natural cane sugar
1/2 cup (140 g) roasted apple puree

Heat the butter in a small saucepan over medium high heat until milk solids start to brown. Strain through a fine sieve and set aside to cool.

In a small bowl, whisk together the superfine brown rice flour, quinoa flour, hazelnut flour, baking powder, salt, and xanthan gum.

In the bowl of a stand mixer, whip the eggs and sugar on high speed for 5 minutes until light and thick. Add the dry ingredients and mix on low speed until combined. Add the brown butter and roasted apple puree and mix until combined. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap making sure the plastic touches the batter. This will ensure no skim forms on top.

Chill the batter for 2 hours. Spoon the batter into greased madeleine pan. Chill this pan again while we preheat the oven.

Preheat oven to 425F. Bake madeleines for 12 to 15 minutes. Do not open the oven during the first 10 minutes.

Let them cool in the pan for 5 minutes, then transfer them to a cooling rack.

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Where the Apple Trees Are

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Sweet Potato, Yogurt and Hazelnut Cakes

Our little M. turns two weeks old today and our lives have forever changed. We have been spending a lot of time inside, nesting, enjoying the quiet time and resting when the little bean sleeps. I am so thankful to have my mom here to cook healthy meals for us. I don't know how I would do it without her, really.

I also have to thank you all for all the wonderful comments and words you left for us in the last post. It's overwhelming and very, very touching. We really appreciate it.



I slowly started baking again over the weekend, but at a much slower pace as the little one requires so much attention and needs to be nursed often. I had forgotten so much about this stage in a baby's life and I feel like I'm learning everything all over again. She is also a very different baby than J. was. Perhaps an easier baby? Or maybe I'm more relaxed about it all.



I made these sweet potato, homemade yogurt and hazelnut cakes a week before M. arrived. I actually had to make them twice because the first time I made them, they disappeared so quickly that I had none to style and photograph. These were definitely a hit. Moist, crunchy and spicy. I even turned some into cupcakes with a simple mascarpone and mace icing.

Right before the birth, I told you about my yogurt making craze. I made yogurt about every other day and enjoyed it in so many different ways like the maple and yogurt panna cotta, these sweet potato cakes or just plain with some caramelized apples and pistachio crumble. My kind of healthy and comforting snacks.



Sweet Potato, Yogurt and Hazelnut Cakes

300 grams sweet potato puree (from about 2-3 medium size sweet potatoes)
100 grams brown sugar
50 grams sugar
3 eggs
100 grams homemade yogurt (or whole milk store bought)
100 grams vegetable oil
Zest of half an orange
160 grams flour
40 grams hazelnut flour
4 grams sea salt
4 grams baking soda
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/4 tsp ginger
large pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
130 grams hazelnuts, toasted and chopped
30 grams hazelnuts, chopped for topping

Place the sweet potatoes in a baking dish and bake at 400F for about 45 minutes to an hour until flesh is fork tender. Let them cool, cut them open and scoop out the flesh. Puree it.

In a large bowl, combine the flour, hazelnut flour, salt, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger and nutmeg.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the sweet potato puree, brown sugar, sugar, eggs, yogurt, oil and orange zest. Pour the wet ingredients over the dry and whisk until combined. It will be a runny batter. Fold in the toasted and chopped hazelnuts.

Pour the batter in the molds (about 3/4 of the way full), sprinkle the top with chopped hazelnuts and bake at 350F until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Time will vary depending on the mold. For small loaf pans, about 22 minutes, the smaller individual molds about 17 minutes.

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Sweet Potato, Yogurt and Hazelnut Cakes

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Maple and Homemade Yogurt Panna Cotta with Poached Forelle Pears

I cannot believe that I am actually writing this post in between was seems to be early labor. Contractions have been happening on and off for the last few hours and when I visited my midwife this morning, she said this baby is well on her way. I never thought I would be blogging or tweeting through this (so unlike me), but the excitement is way stronger than I anticipated. I believe nature is wise and that my body was actually waiting for my parents to arrive to really get things going.



I made this panna cotta a couple of days before my parents actually arrived, but I knew I had to freeze some for them to taste. Poached fruit is one of my mom's favorite desserts and I have fortunately inherited that from her. So simple and light.

It had been a while since I made homemade yogurt, but for some reason, I have been at it again lately. I've been using yogurt in almost everything and I love the touch of acidity that it adds to the panna cotta. It's a beautiful contrast to the sweet and dark maple syrup.



So this is it for now. Short and sweet. Like I said before, now we just have to let life happen. I will be back shortly with news, more recipes and photos to share. Thank you very much!



Poached Forelle Pears

300 grams sugar
600 grams water
2 vanilla beans, split
1 cinnamon stick
1 Tbs fresh ginger
8 forelle pears, peeled


Place all ingredients in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil until sugar dissolves. Turn heat to low and poach the pears (they may not al fit at once) until tender, about 15 minutes.

Maple and Homemade Yogurt Panna Cotta

500 ml heavy cream
150 grams dark maple syrup
4 sheets of gelatin
250 ml homemade yogurt

Place the heavy cream and maple syrup in a small saucepan and bring to a light boil. In the meantime, soak the gelatin sheets in ice water until soft, about 5 minutes. Squeeze out the excess water from the gelatin and add it to the hot cream. Stir to dissolve.

Transfer the cream to a clean bowl and let it cool to body temperature. Add the yogurt and stir. Pour into containers and refrigerate until set.

Serve with the poached pears, maple syrup and some chopped pistachios.

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Maple and Homemade Yogurt Panna Cotta with Poached Forelle Pears

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A Pie in the Making and a Happy Thanksgiving

We started our Thanksgiving dinner prep today by making the croutons for the stuffing, brining the turkey, making the cranberry sauce and rolling out the pie dough for the pumpkin pie. For me, the anticipation is the most exciting part of the whole thing. I love prep work and organizing every single step in my head.

We picked out some fresh flowers today called "wax flowers" for our table setting. We are using recycled spice jars as vases and placing them next to each person. I love little details.



I hope you have a great Thanksgiving!

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A Pie in the Making and a Happy Thanksgiving

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Pumpkin and Gingerbread Ice Cream Sandwiches

Since I was gone for practically three weeks, I have not been thinking about the upcoming holidays. It suddenly hit me when we went over to a friend's house for dinner and their entire house was beautifully decorated with autumn motifs. Halloween is around the corner (still don't know if our little boy will end up wearing the costume we got him) and Thanksgiving and Christmas follow soon after.

Although I grew up eating lots of winter squash, I had never really had it as an ingredient in a dessert until I came to the US and tasted pumpkin pie. I immediately fell in love and to this day, pumpkin pie is my favorite part of the American holidays.




As you might have noticed, I love ice cream and particularly ice cream sandwiches. The weather is still warm enough to be enjoying ice cream outside.

We got some great looking pumpkins the other day, which I roasted. I used some of that flesh for this ice cream and froze the rest. I found that the flesh was a bit more watery than the regular canned pumpkin puree, but it tasted excellent. We also roasted the pumpkin seeds and ate them right out of the oven with a bit of sea salt. Deliciousness.

Gingerbread Sugar Cookies

250 grams butter
125 grams powdered sugar
1 egg
370 grams flour
3 grams salt
2 grams baking powder
3 grams ground ginger
2 grams ground cloves
1 gram ground cinnamon
Egg wash
Sanding sugar

Cream the butter and the powdered sugar with the paddle attachment. Scrape the bowl and add the egg. Mix until combined. Combine the flour, salt, baking powder and spices and add to the mixing bowl. Mix until combined.

Turn the dough on to your work surface and shape it into a disk. Wrap it in plastic wrap and flatten it some more. Refrigerate overnight.

Remove dough from refrigerator and roll to 1/8" thickness. Cut with a square cookie cutter that is about 3" and place them on a sheetpan lined with a silicon mat or a piece of parchment paper. Brush the tops of the cookies with egg wash and sprinkle sanding sugar on top. Bake at 350F for about 8 minutes. Let the cookies cool before assembling the ice cream sandwiches.

Pumpkin Spice Ice Cream

450 grams whole milk
100 grams heavy cream
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp nutmeg
1/8 tsp cloves
170 grams sugar
70 grams egg yolks
200 grams fresh pumpkin puree

Cut a medium size pumpkin in half. Place on a sheetpan cut side down and bake at 375F for about 30 minutes or until flesh soft and scoopable. Measure 200 grams of the pumpkin flesh, puree and set aside.

In a medium saucepan, heat the milk, heavy cream, half of the sugar and the spices. In a separate bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and the rest of the sugar. When the milk mixture comes to a boil, temper into the egg yolks and whisk. Return this base to the pan and cook to 82C or until it coats the back of a wooden spoon.

Strain this custard through a fine sieve into a clean bowl. Mix the pumpkin puree into it and place the bowl over an ice bath to cool it quickly. Let the ice cream base rest in the refrigerator overnight.

Churn in ice cream machine and when done, pour into a frozen quarter sheetpan. Freeze until solid.

Cut ice cream with the same size square cookie cutter used to cut the gingerbread sugar cookies. Place the ice cream squares between cookies and serve,

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Pumpkin and Gingerbread Ice Cream Sandwiches

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Seven Spice Ice Cream with Yogurt and Brown Sugar Cake

Even though it still feels like a hot summer where we are, and it will continue to feel this way for another couple of months, I thought it would be a good way to start the autumn season with the aroma of spices. My friend Helen sent me a wonderful care package a couple of weeks ago. I know many of you know and visit her blog, and I can assure you she is just as lovely as she appears to be. In that care package, she included some mulling spices, which I have using to make tea almost every night. That's where he inspiration came from for this dessert, the warmth of spices.




I toasted the spices before infusing the milk, which created another subtle layer. The ice cream is served over a really moist brown sugar and yogurt sponge cake. Along with the brown sugar I also added some muscavado, which left some pieces of undissolved sugar in the cake creating almost a sugar swirl inside the cake. Very, very moist and gooey. Even if you don't try the ice cream, I do encourage you to make this cake. You will not regret it.



Seven Spice Ice Cream

500 grams whole milk
130 grams heavy cream
40 grams glucose
100 grams granulated sugar
50 grams muscavado sugar
180 grams egg yolks
6 grams juniper berries
1 cinnamon stick
5 grams white peppercorns
8 grams fresh ginger, sliced
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
6 grams coriander seeds
5 grams star anise

Place the juniper berries, white peppercorns, coriander seeds and star anise in a small saute pan. Place them over the heat and toast them for a minute until they really start to release a lot of their aroma. Remove from heat.

Place the whole milk, heavy cream, glucose, muscavado, cinnamon, vanilla bean, fresh ginger and all the toasted spices in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, remove from heat and let the spices steep in the milk for about 45 minutes. Return the pan to the heat and bring it to a boil again.

In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the granulated sugar. Temper the hot liquid over the yolks and whisk. Return the custard back to the saucepan and cook to 82C or until it coats the back of the spoon. Strain the ice cream base through a fine sieve into a clean bowl and chill over an ice bath. Refrigerate overnight and churn in ice cream machine. Freeze.

Yogurt and Brown Sugar Sponge Cake

170 grams butter
150 grams brown sugar
85 grams granulated sugar
50 grams muscavado sugar
Zest of 1 lemon
1 tsp vanilla extract
2 eggs
180 grams yogurt
180 grams flour
4 grams baking powder

Cream the butter and all three sugars together for about 2 minutes until fluffy. Add the lemon zest and vanilla extract and mix. Scrape the bowl well. Add the eggs, one at a time. Mix and scrape the bowl. Add the yogurt. Mix and add the flour and baking powder. Mix until combined. Pour the batter into a quarter sheetpan and spread evenly. Bake at 350 degrees for about 20 minutes.

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Seven Spice Ice Cream with Yogurt and Brown Sugar Cake

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Roasted Plums with Tarragon Ice Cream

I have been in a fresh herb kick lately. I think I have neglected them for a very long time and I don't know why. I love them just as much as I love fresh flowers. I respect them for their medicinal benefits and for what they add to food. I feel I have been redeeming myself and all I can think about are fresh herbs.

The first time I ever tried this ice cream was at a class I took with Sebastien Cannone from the French Pastry School and I will never forget it. Yes, it is delicious and perfectly balanced, but that is not the reason why. You see, I was assisting him in his class and I was asked to just get the mise en place ready for him. I had just started culinary school and I was very intimidated around all these professional chefs.

When I set myself out to scale the tarragon ice cream recipe, I think I forgot to zero out the scale at one point and I completely mis-scaled the entire recipe. Can you imagine how embarassed I was when he was cooking it and noticed the proportions were off? I thought that was the end of my professional career as a pastry chef. I thought, "what a disgrace, I can't even scale a simple recipe!" Well, he was a complete gentleman and didn't even say anything, just asked me to rescale it in a very polite matter. So I did. It worked and it was as perfect as I imagined it to be.



For those of you who have never tasted tarragon, I would say it is the licorice of the herb family. It reminds me a lot of licorice root or fennel. Very sweet and mild. I roasted the plums with a little bit of sugar (not much because they were very sweet naturally), vanilla bean, pink peppercorns and star anise which is also very licorice-y.

Sebastien's recipe has very specific guidelines on when to add ingredients, at what temperature, how to mix them... I didn't follow them as precisely but it turned out well, although not as smooth as when churned in a commercial ice cream machine. So the recipe below is not as accurate as his but it worked for me. Also, if you do not have access to some of these ingredients, you can make similar ice cream if you follow the recipe I posted a couple of weeks ago for mint chocolate chip. Just use tarragon instead.



Tarragon Ice Cream
adapted from Sebastien Cannone's recipe

490 grams whole milk
30 grams non fat dry milk powder
115 grams sugar
40 grams glucose powder
4 grams ice cream stabilizer
80 grams butter
5 grams fresh tarragon
60 grams egg yolks

Place the whole milk, tarragon, butter and milk powder in a medium saucepan. Bring it to a boil. In the meantime, whisk the sugar, glucose powder and ice cream stabilizer in a bowl. When the milk comes to a boil, add the sugar mixture and whisk. Return to a boil.

Temper the milk mixture into the egg yolks. Return this custard to the pan and cook while constantly stirring to 84C. Strain into a clean bowl through a fine sieve and cool completely over an ice bath.

Refrigerate for at least 12 hours so the ice cream matures properly. Churn in ice cream machine and freeze.

This recipe will be my entry for Mike's Table's "I Scream, You Scream, We All Scream for Frozen Desserts". Remember you have until July 7th!

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Roasted Plums with Tarragon Ice Cream

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Mini Cookie Crumb Ice Cream Bars

Looking through my photo files yesterday, I realized I have so many photographs of recipes I made when my parents were visiting in February that I have not yet posted. We really did cook quite a bit. That's what my mom and I like to do together and I document and photograph everything!

These were little vanilla ice cream bars dipped in chocolate and sprinkled with cinnamon graham crackers. So easy to do and I thought I could leave you with some refreshing photos to end the weekend. I don't know about where you are but it is getting very warm here in South Florida so ice cream, sorbet and the beach is all I can handle.




Happy Sunday to you!

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Mini Cookie Crumb Ice Cream Bars

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Pink Peppercorn Macarons with Strawberry Sorbet

This was the recipe I had planned to make while Shuna from Eggbeater was here in Florida visiting her family. As soon as I read in her blog that she was coming, I contacted her and asked her if she would like to join me in my kitchen for a baking session. All I could think about were the beautiful photos that would come out of that encounter. I always feel sort of lonely in the kitchen. I like company and often times I wish I had a photographer buddy that could accompany me in my experiments. I couldn't wait to meet Shuna. I love her blog... she makes me think. So Shuna kindly responded to my email and we agreed to meet on a Friday morning at my house.

But Thursday night, life took a turn, my son got sick and we were never able to meet and bake. I was really looking forward to it and felt very disappointed but it was nobody's fault. We did meet later that weekend but no baking was involved. Just great conversation and the best sweet kugel I have ever had.



I came up with the idea of pink peppercorn macarons while walking by the meat counter at Whole Foods. It had been a long time since I had thought about or cooked with pink macarons but as soon as I laid eyes on the little jar, I remembered their slightly sweet and spicy aroma. Perfect, I thought, I will fill them with strawberry sorbet. Remember my post for strawberries and pepper? That's where the inspiration came again.

The smell that came out of the oven while the macarons were baking was incredible. I couldn't wait for them to cool down enough to try them. I tried one by itself and it was perfect. Sweet, crunch, chewy but a little spicy kick at the end. Subtle.




Pink Peppercorn Macarons

180 grams almond flour
240 grams powdered sugar
140 grams organic egg whites, aged
3 grams egg white powder
2 grams fine sea salt
80 grams sugar
a few drops of all natural red food coloring
Pink peppercorns, ground

Make sure that the egg whites have been separated from the egg yolks the night before. This bit of aging really makes a difference in the macaroons.

In a large bowl, sift together the almond flour, powdered sugar and sea salt. Set aside.

Whip the egg whites with the egg white powder until very fluffy, almost fully whipped. Start adding the vanilla sugar slowly while whipping. Whip to stiff peaks but not too much or the meringue will dry out. We want semi soft "ripples" still in the meringue. Add as much food coloring to the meringue as you like. I tend to like soft colors but some prefer really vibrant ones.

Add the meringue to the almond flour mixture and fold with a spatula until a shiny mass forms. We want to achieve a batter that makes ribbons. You might have to test it to see if it's done. Pipe a small amount on your sheetpan. If it keeps a little bit of a top when piped, then you have to mix it a bit further, if it spreads really fast, you have gone too far and your macaroons will turn out flat.

When you have the right consistency, place the mass in a pastry bag with a number 5 tip and pipe small rounds onto sheetpans lined with parchment or silpat. While the tops are still wet, sprinkle the ground pink peppercorns on top. Let them dry at room temperature for at least 45 minutes to an hour.

Have the oven preheated to 350 degrees. Place one sheetpan in the oven at a time and reduce the temperature to 300 degrees. Bake for 10 minutes and rotate sheetpan and bake for another 10 minutes. Test to see if they are done by picking one up and seing if it still sticks to the paper or not.

Strawberry Sorbet

1 1/2 cups fresh strawberry puree (I didn't strain it)
Juice of half a lemon
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 water

Make a syrup with the water and the sugar by quickly boiling it until the sugar dissolves. Remove from heat right away. Let the syrup cool in the refrigerator. Add the strawberry puree and the lemon juice and churn in ice cream machine. Freeze.

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Pink Peppercorn Macarons with Strawberry Sorbet

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