Fall Flavors, Macarons and the Daring Bakers



    It wouldn't surprise me if I am indeed the last Daring Baker to post the challenge today. "Phew..." It almost didn't happen! Life has been crazy with all sorts of unexpected events, travel and finishing up side projects before baby arrives.

    I made the macarons right before I went on a weekend getaway, but did not have enough time to style and photograph them. My plan was to do it right as I returned from my trip, but I should have known better. "Never leave for tomorrow what you can finish today", my amama used to say. She was right.



    Like most of you, I am super inspired by whatever fall has to bring. My initial intent was to make some membrillo, but quince is nowhere to be seen around here, so I chose to use asian pears, which are abundant and beautiful. Inspired by Stephane Glacier's apple tart tatin macarons, I cooked asian pears in caramel and butter. I combined both almond and pistachio macaron shells with the asian pear tatin and mascarpone cream.

    I also made chestnut and praline macarons with the chestnut cream that my dear friend Deb brought back for me from Paris. I had been saving it for something special and I couldn't wait any longer. I made the praline by caramelizing the hazelnuts just like my grandmother used to do with a sandy sugar coating. Oh the memories that those smells bring!



    I have several packages ready to give out to friends this week. This last month will be crazy for me and I have so many people to be thankful for. Enjoy!



    The 2009 October Daring Bakers’ challenge was brought to us by Ami S. She chose macarons from Claudia Fleming’s The Last Course: The Desserts of Gramercy Tavern as the challenge recipe.

    Claudia Fleming's Macarons

    Note: I made three different batches using three different nuts. Some all almond, some added half almond/half pistachio flour and some half almond/half hazelnut flour.

    2 ¼ cups (225 g, 8 oz.) powdered sugar
    2 cups (190 g, 6.7 oz.) almond flour
    2 tablespoon (25 g, .88 oz.) sugar
    5 (Have at room temperature) egg whites


    1. Preheat the oven to 200°F (93°C). Combine the confectioners’ sugar and almond flour in a medium bowl. If grinding your own nuts, combine nuts and a cup of confectioners’ sugar in the bowl of a food processor and grind until nuts are very fine and powdery.
    2. Beat the egg whites in the clean dry bowl of a stand mixer until they hold soft peaks. Slowly add the granulated sugar and beat until the mixture holds stiff peaks.
    3. Sift a third of the almond flour mixture into the meringue and fold gently to combine. If you are planning on adding zest or other flavorings to the batter, now is the time. Sift in the remaining almond flour in two batches. Be gentle! Don’t overfold, but fully incorporate your ingredients.
    4. Spoon the mixture into a pastry bag fitted with a plain half-inch tip (Ateco #806). You can also use a Ziploc bag with a corner cut off. It’s easiest to fill your bag if you stand it up in a tall glass and fold the top down before spooning in the batter.
    5. Pipe one-inch-sized (2.5 cm) mounds of batter onto baking sheets lined with nonstick liners (or parchment paper).
    6. Bake the macaroon for 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and raise the temperature to 375°F (190°C). Once the oven is up to temperature, put the pans back in the oven and bake for an additional 7 to 8 minutes, or lightly colored.
    7. Cool on a rack before filling.

Post Title

Fall Flavors, Macarons and the Daring Bakers


Post URL

http://mercymadame.blogspot.com/2009/10/fall-flavors-macarons-and-daring-bakers.html


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Baking with Persimmons and Some Childhood Memories



    When I spotted the first persimmons of the season this past week, I almost broke out in laughter thinking about my childhood memories associated with them. Not all good, believe me.



    Although I grew up surrounded by persimmon trees (we call them kakiak or caquis in Spanish), this was not a fruit we ate or knew how to cook with. Instead, the over ripe fruit would always end up smashed on the ground making a jam-like pathway on our way to school everyday.

    My school was right next to a convent were the priests had their own vegetable garden and tons of fruit trees; persimmons amongst them. The trees were lined up right next to the sidewalk so when autumn came, boys loved climbing up and getting the hardest persimmons to use as shooting devices against us girls. I remember having many, many persimmon-impact bruises on the back of my legs. Thank goodness I can look back and smile.



    If you have never had a persimmon, you must know that there are two types, which have different characteristics. The Hachiya persimmon is the variety I grew up with and unless they are very ripe, they are almost inedible when raw. They have an oval shape and are mainly used to make jams and cook with. The Fuyu persimmons on the other hand, are flat like a tomato and can be eaten raw like any other fruit. Some have large seeds inside, but some don't.

    I was surprised to find that everyone of my friends that walked into our kitchen this week asked, "what are those?". I was surprised of how unknown they seem to be to some. I suppose their childhood memories don't include persimmon fights.



    Growing up, I don't ever remember my mom baking any extravagant desserts, mainly because we grew up in the family pastry shop and we had abundant leftover brioche and pastries everyday. But I do remember her lemon, yogurt and olive oil cake that called for one yogurt container of this, three yogurt containers of that... So I took that idea and adapted it to include almond flour, muscovado and the traditional yogurt and olive oil. This makes such a moist cake and can be made alone or with basically any fruit.

    The cool temperatures have also arrived in South Florida and at night I have been craving creamy desserts like these mascarpone and marsala sabayon verrines with pistachio and almond crumble and poached persimmons. I thought I lost my sweet tooth during the first months of this pregnancy, but I believe it is back and these did the trick.



    Persimmon Upside Down Yogurt and Olive Oil Cakes

    Makes about a dozen 3" cakes

    2-3 Fuyu persimmons, thinly sliced
    1 Tbs butter
    2 Tbs sugar

    275 grams flour
    30 grams almond flour
    1 tsp ground cinnamon
    7 grams baking powder
    pinch of salt
    4 eggs
    200 grams sugar
    40 grams muscovado
    Zest of 1 lemon
    250 grams plain yogurt
    225 grams light olive oil
    2 persimmons, small dice
    Squeeze lemon juice


    In a large saute pan, melt the butter and sugar together. Add the sliced persimmons and cook until softened about 3-4 min on each side. Place them on the bottom of the cake pans and let cool. Proceed with cake batter.

    Cut the two other persimmons and toss them in lemon juice.

    In a large bowl, combine flour, almond flour, cinnamon, baking powder and salt. In a separate medium bowl, whisk together the eggs with the sugar, muscovado, lemon zest, yogurt and olive oil. Add the liquids to the dry ingredients and mix until combined. Fold in the diced persimmons.

    Pour batter over the caramelized persimmons (make sure these are cool). Bake at 350F for about 15-20 min until golden brown and when knife is inserted, it comes out clean. Let the cakes cool before unmolding.


    Poached Persimmon, Mascarpone and Marsala Sabayon and Pistachio Crumble Verrines

    Makes 4-6 large verrines

    Poached Persimmons

    400 grams water
    200 grams sugar
    4 Fuyu persimmons, medium dice


    Make a sugar syrup with the water and sugar by bringing them to a boil. Slowly poach the diced persimmons in the syrup until softened, about 10 minutes. Note that the persimmons might still keep "a bite" and not become completely soft if they are not very ripe.

    Mascarpone and Marsala Sabayon

    3 egg yolks
    50 grams sugar
    25 grams marsala
    110 grams mascarpone
    70 grams heavy cream, soft peaks


    Whisk the egg yolks, sugar and marsala together in a medium bowl. Place this over a double boiler and cook until it thickens while constantly whisking. Make sure the water in the water bath is simmering not boiling.

    When the sabayon thickens, remove from heat and whisk in the mascarpone cream. Cover with plastic wrap and let it cool in the refrigerator for about 1 hour. Then fold in the soft peak heavy cream.

    To assemble the verrines, layer pistachio crumble, poached persimmons and the sabayon.

Post Title

Baking with Persimmons and Some Childhood Memories


Post URL

http://mercymadame.blogspot.com/2009/10/baking-with-persimmons-and-some.html


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Pumpkin and Hazelnut Doughnuts and a Clafoutis



    It has been all about pumpkins in our family lately. Pumpkin patches, pumpkin carving, baking with pumpkins, books about Halloween and the meaning of it all... I never thought I would say this, and forgive me if I sound like a cliche, but children's enthusiasm for holidays can really be very, very contagious. Life through their eyes takes on a complete new meaning and to be able to experience it makes my heart flutter sometimes. Of course, I am also in a constant hormone-induced emotional state, which doesn't help either, but I love this time of year more and more.



    I have never been a big fan of any fried dessert, but ever since Lara started on her doughnut cookbook project, I have become increasingly curious about testing new recipes myself. Then earlier last week, I stumbled upon an old cake doughnut recipe we used to use at work. "We are making pumpkin doughnuts today!", I told my little boy. His face lit up and immediately went to drag his step stool into the kitchen. Big mistake on my part as a meltdown soon followed when he found out he couldn't stand in front of the hot frying pan. "Why not?", he asked.



    I know I should have probably roasted my own pumpkin, but this time I cheated and used canned pumpkin puree. Some pumpkins are too watery to use in such preparations so if you are going to roast your own, make sure to use a cheese pumpkin or even butternut squash which are meatier. I also added some hazelnut flour into the doughnuts and coated them in a hazelnut cinnamon sugar mixture while hot.

    I had some leftover puree and immediately thought of Claudia Fleming's pumpkin and hazelnut clafoutis. Comfort and rustic food at its best. And no need to mention that both of these should be eaten right away. Love that.



    Pumpkin and Hazelnut Doughnuts

    375 grams flour
    55 grams hazelnut flour
    10 grams baking powder
    8 grams baking soda
    1 tsp cinnamon
    1 tsp freshly ground nutmeg
    1/2 tsp ground ginger
    1/8 tsp ground cloves
    10 grams salt
    110 grams pumpkin puree
    60 grams whole milk, room temperature
    40 grams sour cream, room temperature
    100 grams sugar
    2 eggs, room temperature
    60 grams butter, melted

    Canola oil, for frying

    400 grams sugar
    2 tsp ground cinnamon
    50 grams hazelnuts, toasted, skinned and finely chopped


    In a large bowl mix together the flour, hazelnut flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, cloves and salt.

    In a separate bowl, whisk the pumpkin, milk, sour cream, sugar, eggs and melted butter. Add this mixture to the dry ingredients and fold until it comes together. Don't worry if it's lumpy.

    Dust your work surface with a bit of flour and dump the dough on it. Knead lightly until it comes together. Dust the top lightly with flour and roll to 1/2" thick. Using a doughnut cutter or two round cookie cutters, cut out the doughnuts and place them on a sheet pan with a silicon mat or parchment and dusted with some flour.

    To fry the doughnuts, fill a pan up to 2" of canola oil. Heat the oil until it reaches 375F. Do not over-crowd the pan with doughnuts. Fry about 5 at a time (depending on the size of the pan). They will sink to the bottom but then float to the top. Turn them over and let them cook for an additional 2 minutes or so.

    Drain them on paper towels and while hot, coat them with the cinnamon-hazelnut sugar.

Post Title

Pumpkin and Hazelnut Doughnuts and a Clafoutis


Post URL

http://mercymadame.blogspot.com/2009/10/pumpkin-and-hazelnut-doughnuts-and.html


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Soup and a Tart for... "In The Kitchen With" Design*Sponge



    Over the summer, I was so excited to be featured as a guest in Design*Sponge's "In The Kitchen With...". This is one of my must-read weekly columns, as I discover so many new talents and artist. It is always so interesting to see everyone's approach on food, styling and photography and the story behind each and every recipe.

    So when I was approached by Kristina again to do a second feature, I was more than flattered. "Why don't we try something savory this time?", she asked. "Perfect!", I thought since I have really been inspired by produce and comfort food recently.



    I could live off soup everyday and never get tired of it, but I always have to have "a little something" to accompany it. Whether it may be simple cheese on toast or a slice of tart, it adds something special to the whole meal, so this time I created one of the soups we eat most during the fall, a butternut squash and orange cauliflower soup and to go with it, a leek, baby broccoli and smoked salmon herb tart. Believe me, it makes a full lunch.

    Along with the recipes, you can also find Kristina's favorite cookbooks and a list of some of my latest kitchen obsessions. Hope you try it. You can find the full recipes here.



    I also want to thank Kaytlyn of Beneficial Design for helping me create the most beautiful banner once again and to Nadia, for the loveliest mini crabapples straight from her farm.

    Have a great weekend!

Post Title

Soup and a Tart for... "In The Kitchen With" Design*Sponge


Post URL

http://mercymadame.blogspot.com/2009/10/soup-and-tart-for-kitchen-with.html


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Roasted Apples with Almond and Muscovado Crumble and Marzipan Ice Cream



    In a little bit over a month, mine will officially be considered a full term pregnancy. I still cannot wrap my head around it and although I have been through it once before, I feel like I am starting from zero once again. It is hard to imagine that we will have another little person added to our family unit, which will forever change our lives. So I suppose this means I have entered what it is called the nesting period. I had not given it much thought until this past week when I found myself cleaning, collecting, reading and making lists.

    On top of it all, as the days are shorter and we become accustomed to our fall routine, I have been cooking and baking a lot more comfort foods. Soups, stews and easy tarts are part of our daily repertoire. I realized going through my pantry that I have not used a single sheet of gelatin in weeks, but on the other hand, I cannot keep my nut bins filled to save my life. That to me says a lot.



    I was on the phone with my mom this past week when she told me about the compota de reinetas she always makes during the cold months with reineta apples, dried fruit, cinnamon and a touch of sugar. It reminded me of the smell of her kitchen and as soon as I hang up the phone, I started roasting some apples myself.

    Reinetas are nearly impossible to find here, so I used Pink Ladies and Galas. They are firm, very acidic yet sweet, which make a great baking apple. I sliced them horizontally and layered them with a gluten free almond and muscovado sugar crumble and to accompany them a fall/winter favorite, marzipan ice cream.



    My little boy and his best friend D. played a lot outside this week and even modeled for me. They collected pine cones, dead leaves and talked about their Halloween plans while D. tried on her new rain boots. They crack me up and I love their dynamics. We also planted new herbs like stevia, mini purple basil and feverfew, which I have never had before. I hope they last.



    Gluten Free Almond and Muscovado Crumble

    Note: Makes more than what you will need. Freeze the rest.

    100 grams butter, softened
    50 grams sugar
    50 grams muscovado sugar
    1 vanilla bean, split and seeded
    100 grams rice flour
    120 grams almond meal
    pinch of salt
    80 grams raw almonds, chopped


    Cream the butter, sugar, muscovado and vanilla bean seeds with the paddle attachment. Add the rice flour, almond meal and salt and mix. Add the chopped almonds and mix until crumbly.

    Roasted Apples with Almond and Muscovado Crumble

    Slice 4 apples horizontally. Keep the top, but core the rest of the layers. Place them on a baking sheet. Sprinkle the crumble in between the layers and in the cavities.

    Bake at 350F for about 30 minutes or until tender. You can baste them with a bit of melted butter in the process if the apples seem a bit too dry.

    Marzipan Ice Cream

    650 ml heavy cream
    350 ml whole milk
    1/2 tsp salt
    170 grams marzipan, cut into 1 inch pieces
    4 egg yolks
    80 grams sugar
    1/2 tsp almond extract


    Place the heavy cream, whole milk and salt in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil.

    In the meantime, place the cubed marzipan in the food processor. When the heavy cream and milk mixture comes to a boil, remove about 1/2 cup of liquid approximately and add it to the marzipan while the food processor is running. This will break up the marzipan and turn it into a creamy paste.

    Add the marzipan mixture to the saucepan with the heavy cream and return to a simmer.

    In the meantime, whisk the egg yolks with the sugar in a bowl. Temper in the marzipan mixture while whisking constantly. Return the mixture to the pan and cook until the custard coats the back of a wooden spoon (84C or 183F). Immediately strain the custard through a fine sieve into a clean bowl. Add the almond extract.

    Cool the ice cream base over an ice bath and then refrigerate for about 4 hours. Churn in ice cream machine and freeze.

Post Title

Roasted Apples with Almond and Muscovado Crumble and Marzipan Ice Cream


Post URL

http://mercymadame.blogspot.com/2009/10/roasted-apples-with-almond-and.html


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