A Flourless Chocolate Cake and Endless Possibilities



    February has flown by and it's time again for another Daring Bakers challenge. This time, we were asked to make a chocolate Valentino, which is essentially a flourless chocolate cake. Dense, fudgy and super moist flourless chocolate cake. We were given free range on this one except for one rule, we had to make an ice cream to go with it.

    How could I settle on one dessert when the possibilities are endless?



    I actually made the recipe twice because I really wanted to see what the batter would do while baking, how it would hold its shape and how much it would rise and deflate. I always think of the characteristics and structure of a recipe before I decide on how to bake it or plate it. I decided a sheet cake would be best and would allow me to build cakes or any other dessert best.



    My ice cream of choice was pecan craquelin and vanilla bean ice cream. This cake is so moist, almost brownie-like, that I thought ice cream sandwiches would be perfect. I spread the softened ice cream on a frozen sheetpan, let it get hard again and cut it with the same square cookie cutters that I used to cut the cake.

    I also baked some of the first batch of cake batter in some ramekins for a little souffle-type action.

    I used the rest of the cake to build petits gateaux with layers of cardamom chocolate truffle mousse and almond nougatine crunch. I wrapped them in strips of tempered dark chocolate and made some tempered chocolate swirls.



    Finally, thank you to this month's hosts Wendy and Dharm and the words that I am required to mention for this challenge...

    The February 2009 challenge is hosted by Wendy of WMPE's blog and Dharm of Dad ~ Baker & Chef.
    We have chosen a Chocolate Valentino cake by Chef Wan; a Vanilla Ice Cream recipe from Dharm and a Vanilla Ice Cream recipe from Wendy as the challenge.

    Chocolate Valentino
    adapted from Sweet Treats by Chef Wan

    16 ounces (1 pound) (454 grams) of semisweet chocolate, roughly chopped
    ½ cup (1 stick) plus 2 tablespoons (146 grams total) of unsalted butter
    5 large eggs separated


    Put chocolate and butter in a heatproof bowl and set over a pan of simmering water (the bottom of the bowl should not touch the water) and melt, stirring often.

    While your chocolate butter mixture is cooling. Butter your pan and line with a parchment circle then butter the parchment.

    Separate the egg yolks from the egg whites and put into two medium/large bowls.
    Whip the egg whites in a medium/large grease free bowl until stiff peaks are formed (do not over-whip or the cake will be dry).

    With the same beater beat the egg yolks together.

    Add the egg yolks to the cooled chocolate.

    Fold in 1/3 of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture and follow with remaining 2/3rds. Fold until no white remains without deflating the batter. {link of folding demonstration}

    Pour batter into prepared pan, the batter should fill the pan 3/4 of the way full, and bake at 375F/190C

    Bake for 25 minutes until an instant read thermometer reads 140F/60C.
    Note – If you do not have an instant read thermometer, the top of the cake will look similar to a brownie and a cake tester will appear wet.

    Cool cake on a rack for 10 minutes then unmold.

    Salted Pecan Craquelin

    80 grams pecan pieces
    60 grams sugar
    2 grams salt
    20 grams water


    Place the sugar, water and salt in a small saucepan and cook to 121C (around 250F). Add the chopped pecans and stir. Continue cooking over the heart until the nuts start to toast and the sugar turns to a caramel color.

    Pour over a silpat and spread evenly and as thinly as possible. Let it cool completely.

    Crush in a food processor and reserve in an airtight container.

    Salted Pecan Craquelin Ice Cream

    500 grams whole milk
    130 grams heavy cream
    40 grams glucose
    150 grams sugar
    1 vanilla bean, scraped and seeded
    160 grams egg yolks
    pecan craquelin, crushed


    Place the milk, heavy cream, glucose, half of the sugar and vanilla bean in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil.

    In a separate bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and the rest of the sugar. Temper the hot milk mixture into the egg yolks and whisk to combine. Return custard to saucepan and cook for a couple of minutes until the base coats the back of the spoon or 84C.

    Strain through a fine sieve into a clean bowl and let it cool over an ice bath. Refrigerate overnight. The next day, churn in ice cream machine and add the crushed craquelin at the end. Freeze.

    Short but sweet. Have a great weekend!

Post Title

A Flourless Chocolate Cake and Endless Possibilities


Post URL

http://mercymadame.blogspot.com/2009/02/flourless-chocolate-cake-and-endless.html


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Meyer Lemon Semifreddo and Some Macarons



    As you know, I had a bag full of meyer lemons that I received over the weekend. After reading all your suggestions, all I can say is that I wish I had a couple more bags. My brain was spinning with all of those ideas. Sometimes I wish certain fruits were available all year round but again, there is something so exciting about waiting. It makes us appreciate that moment even more.

    I have been having fun lately playing around with different presentations of the same recipe and for some reason, I keep coming back to frozen desserts and macarons. It must be the Spring-like weather we are having.

    Sometimes I think that I could really just spend my days making macarons. All colors and flavors, a la Pierre Herme or Stephane Glacier. Have the windows wide open, a cool breeze coming in and piping all day long while I listen to The Beatles' "White Album".



    I decided to make a simple meyer lemon curd with all those lemons and turn that curd into a meyer lemon semifreddo. Some in ring molds and some in my over-used recycled yogurt containers. Yes, I know. Overused. But so lovely.

    For the macarons, I used my regular macarons recipe but added yellow food coloring and some zest. For the filling, I mixed about two thirds vanilla buttercream with about a third of the lemon curd and some extra zest. So refreshing and colorful. Can you tell I love yellow?



    Meyer Lemon Curd

    100 grams eggs
    35 grams sugar
    100 grams meyer lemon juice
    Zest of 1 meyer lemon
    10 grams butter, room temperature


    In a bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar, juice and zest. Cook this mixture in a double boiler until it thickens (84C).

    Strain into a clean bowl and chill it over an ice bath until it is about body temperature. Add the room temperature butter and mix with a hand blender until an emulsion is form (it will turn a bit lighter in color). Refrigerate until ready to use.

    Pate a Bombe

    110 grams sugar
    30 grams glucose
    55 grams water
    40 grams egg yolk


    Place the egg yolks in the bowl of an electric mixer and start whipping until light and thick.

    In the meantime, place the sugar, glucose and water in a small saucepan and cook to 240F. Add the sugar syrup to the whipped yolks in a slow and steady stream pouring on the side of the bowl. Continue whipping in high until egg yolks thick and cooled.

    Meyer Lemon Semifreddo

    110 grams pate a bombe (about the full recipe described above)
    6 grams sheet gelatin
    80 grams meyer lemon curd
    Zest of 1 meyer lemon
    220 grams heavy cream, soft peak


    Soften the gelatin in ice water for 5 minutes. Add about 3 Tbs of the heavy cream to the softened gelatin and microwave for about 10 seconds until the gelatin melts into the cream. Add this gelatin into the rest of the soft peak heavy cream and whisk rapidly until the gelatin is incorporated.

    Fold a third of the heavy cream into the pate a bombe and mix well. Fold in the rest gently.

    Fold the meyer lemon zest and curd into the base leaving some streaks visible.

    Pour into molds and let it set in the freezer.

Post Title

Meyer Lemon Semifreddo and Some Macarons


Post URL

http://mercymadame.blogspot.com/2009/02/meyer-lemon-semifreddo-and-some.html


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Beautiful Things That Friends Bring



    We spent the weekend camping and when we returned home, we had a beautiful surprise at our door step. My friends know how much I love fruit. Little things that make me happy.

    Any guesses on what I will be making with these?

    Happy Monday!


Post Title

Beautiful Things That Friends Bring


Post URL

http://mercymadame.blogspot.com/2009/02/beautiful-things-that-friends-bring.html


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Strawberry Picking Part Two



    If you read my previous post, you know we went strawberry picking last weekend. We brought so many home that we have been preparing strawberries in every way imaginable. Our freezer is full of bags of frozen strawberries and all kinds of strawberry goodies, like this strawberry sorbet. I hope I am at least making you dream of summer.



    Strawberry shortcake is one of my favorite desserts, so of course I had to make it right away while the strawberries were still fresh and juicy. Buttermilk biscuits, accompanied by macerated strawberries, strawberry sorbet and creme fraiche and vanilla bean cream. We had this on Valentine's night while watching a sort of cheesy, but perfect romantic comedy. Not bad, I say.

    Here are some more photos of our little escapade with the kids, which we will definitely have to do again.



    On another note, I was so excited to hear that Cannelle Et Vanille was named one of the world's 50 best food blogs by The Times Online. Such an honor! You can read the full article here. Thank you very much!

    Also exciting was the post that Holly wrote for Real Simple. Read it here. Thanks Holly!



    Buttermilk Biscuits

    225 grams flour
    40 grams sugar
    9 grams baking powder
    2 grams salt
    75 grams butter, cubed and cold
    125 grams buttermilk
    1 egg yolk


    Mix the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt into a bowl. Add the chilled and cubed butter and coat it with the dry ingredients. Quickly start working the butter into the flour with your fingers. We want to break it down to small pieces but leaving some chunks.

    Mix the buttermilk and the egg yolk together and add it to the dry ingredients. Fold until the dough comes together. Do not overwork it or the dough will be tough. Transfer the dough onto a lightly floured surface and roll to about 1/2" thickness. Cut with cutters and place the biscuits on a sheetpan lined with parchment.

    Refrigerate the biscuits for a couple of hours (or you can freeze them at this point).

    Brush tops with egg wash and sprinkle coarse sugar on top. Bake at 375F for about 15 minutes until they are golden brown.

    Macerated Strawberries

    Wash and cut strawberries. Place them in a clean bowl and sprinkle some sugar over them. Toss them and let them sit at room temperature for about two hours or until the natural juices start to come out.

    If you want, you could add a bit of kirsch, framboise or eau de vie at this point.

    Strawberry Sorbet

    For a different strawberry sorbet recipe go here.

    500 grams strawberry puree
    105 grams water
    75 grams sugar
    75 grams atomized glucose
    1.5 grams sorbet stabilizer


    In a small saucepan, bring water to a boil. Add the atomized glucose and bring it to another boil. Ad the sugar and stabilizer that have been previously mixed together.

    Remove from heat and transfer to a clean bowl. Let it cool in the refrigerator overnight.

    The next day, mix the strawberry puree with the syrup and churn in the ice cream machine. Freeze.

Post Title

Strawberry Picking Part Two


Post URL

http://mercymadame.blogspot.com/2009/02/strawberry-picking-part-two.html


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Strawberry Picking



    As I have mentioned before, we are in the middle of strawberry season here in Florida. This past Saturday, a friend and I took the boys up to Palm City to go strawberry picking for some Valentine's Day fun. Sometimes, I forget what ripe, freshly picked strawberries are supposed to taste like. Pure sweetness that brings me back to the times we used to pick strawberries from my grandparents' farm.

    It's amazing to watch boys at play, digging in the dirt, pulling weeds, looking for bugs. I have never been particularly physical and have always been very tidy, clean and organized, so I am now discovering a new side of me thanks to my little boy. It took several good scrubbings to get those hands, feet and faces clean.



    We picked two large baskets of strawberries, which is definitely more than what we can consume in a couple of days. We shared some with neighbors, froze some for later consumption and I have been baking away with the rest. I am also planning on making some more strawberry pate de fruit, strawberry sorbet, strawberry shortcakes and strawberry jam, which I will share with you later.




    Here is one of C's favorite desserts, which is yogurt panna cotta with layers of strawberry mousse and strawberry gelee topped with meringue sticks. And then one of my favorites, which is an apple and strawberry galette. I know I said we really don't celebrate Valentine's Day, but maybe I lied... just a little. Hope you had a great weekend too!



    Yogurt Panna Cotta

    I used homemade yogurt for this, which is a bit thinner than commercial yogurt. You can also use buttermilk or creme fraiche. The bit of acidity is really nice.

    200 grams heavy cream
    45 grams sugar
    1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
    3 grams sheet gelatin
    100 grams plain yogurt


    In a small saucepan, cook the heavy cream, sugar and vanilla bean until it comes to a boil. In the meantime, soak the gelatin in ice water. When the cream has come to a boil, remove the pan from the heat and add the softened gelatin. Whisk to dissolve it. Pour this into a clean bowl and let it cool to about body temperature. Add the yogurt and whisk well.

    Pour the panna cotta into your molds or jars and let it set in the refrigerator.

    Strawberry Mousse

    100 grams strawberry puree
    10 grams sugar
    2 grams sheet gelatin
    75 grams heavy cream, soft peaks


    Warm half of the strawberry puree with the sugar. In the meantime, soak the sheet gelatin in ice water. Add the softened gelatin to the warm strawberry puree. Add the rest of the puree and let it cool.

    Fold in the whipped cream into the puree base. Pour this mousse on top of the yogurt panna cotta and let it set in the refrigerator.

    Strawberry Gelee

    150 grams strawberry puree
    30 grams sugar
    2 gram sheet gelatin


    Warm half of the strawberry puree with the sugar. In the meantime, soak the sheet gelatin in ice water. Add the softened gelatin to the warm strawberry puree. Add the rest of the puree and let it cool.

    Pour this gelee on top of the strawberry mousse and let it set in the refrigerator.

Post Title

Strawberry Picking


Post URL

http://mercymadame.blogspot.com/2009/02/strawberry-picking.html


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Happy Weekend



    Just wanted to wish you a happy weekend to all of you love birds out there...

Post Title

Happy Weekend


Post URL

http://mercymadame.blogspot.com/2009/02/happy-weekend.html


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Tonka Bean and Rice Milk Sherbet Milkshakes with Pistachio, Raspberry and Buttermilk Tea Cakes



    The warm weather is back and I have been having an unusual urge to make creamy, thick and frothy milkshakes. I have never been one to order a milkshake at a restaurant. In fact, I think I might have only had two milkshakes in my entire life. Ok, maybe a couple more, but not many, that's for sure. So this sudden craving caught me by surprise.

    When I thought about flavors, I thought of the horchatas we used to drink as kids in the summer time. Then I remembered I had some tonka beans that Helen sent to me a few months ago and thought they would be perfect in a sherbet with a hint of cinnamon and rice milk.




    We had the milkshakes in the afternoon with these pistachio, raspberry and buttermilk tea cakes. The sweetness and warmth of the cinnamon and the tonka bean are the perfect contrast to the slightly sour raspberries. For those of you who have never tasted a tonka bean, think of almonds, vanilla, cinnamon and cloves together. Very, very aromatic and it goes perfect with milk and custards. It is a very "homey" aroma to me.

    In my opinion, the tea cakes are better the next day, after they have had a chance to sit in the refrigerator overnight. There is quite a bit of brown sugar in these making them retain a lot of moisture. I really hope you try them.



    Tonka Bean and Cinnamon Horchata Sherbet

    450 grams rice milk
    125 grams sugar
    2 grams sorbet stabilizer
    2 cinnamon sticks
    1/2 tsp grated tonka bean
    200 grams heavy cream


    In a medium saucepan, simmer the rice milk, tonka bean and cinnamon for about 15 minutes to infuse the milk. In a separate bowl, mix the sugar and the sorbet stabilizer really well. Bring the milk to a boil and add the sugar and stabilizer mixture. Whisk and let it come back to a boil so sugar dissolves.

    Strain the milk mixture through a fine sieve into a clean bowl. Let this cool over an ice bath. When cooled, add the heavy cream and whisk to combine.

    Let the mixture mature in the refrigerator overnight and churn in ice cream machine. Freeze.

    Tonka Bean and Rice Milk Sherbet Milkshake

    In a blender, combine about 2 scoops of the sherbet and a splash of whole milk and blend until smooth and frothy.

    Pistachio, Raspberry and Buttermilk Tea Cakes

    170 grams butter
    150 grams light brown sugar
    125 grams granulated sugar
    Zest of 1 lemon
    1 tsp vanilla
    2 eggs
    180 grams buttermilk
    180 grams flour
    4 grams baking powder
    3 grams salt
    25 grams pistachios, chopped
    80 grams raspberries (I used frozen)


    Cream together the butter, brown sugar, granulated sugar, lemon zest and vanilla extract until light. Add the eggs one at a time. Scrape the bowl. Mix flour and salt and while mixing in low speed, add half of it into the bowl. Follow with half of the buttermilk. Add the rest of the flour and finish with the buttermilk. Scrape and mix until all combined.

    Fold in pistachios and raspberries. Spray molds with cooking spray or and fill half way with batter. Bake at 350F until light golden brown.

Post Title

Tonka Bean and Rice Milk Sherbet Milkshakes with Pistachio, Raspberry and Buttermilk Tea Cakes


Post URL

http://mercymadame.blogspot.com/2009/02/tonka-bean-and-rice-milk-sherbet.html


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Weekend Baking



    We are finally having winter-like temperatures around here and it feels great to bundle up and wear scarves. I even had to bring my herb plants inside at night because of the freezing temperatures. It's like a treat for those of us who have to live under air conditioning most of the year.

    All I can think about are soups (I am craving this) and chocolate. Hot chocolate, chocolate cupcakes and a lazy weekend.

    My little boy keeps helping me in the kitchen and I try to take some decent photos to share with you, but it's almost impossible to juggle him, the chocolate mess and a camera all together. So instead, here are some photos of him actually behaving and enjoying a cupcake. Rare are the times he behaves this well. I suppose a cupcake can motivate many of us!



    This chocolate buttermilk cupcake recipe comes straight from the Magnolia Bakery cookbook and the icing is a simple whipped chocolate ganache. Talk about comfort food.

    Chocolate Buttermilk Cupcakes
    adapted from "Magnolia Bakery Cookbook" by Jennifer Appel and Alyssa Torey

    2 sticks butter, softened
    1 cup sugar
    1 cup brown sugar
    4 eggs
    6 oz unsweetened chocolate, melted
    1 cup buttermilk
    1 tsp vanilla
    2 cups flour
    1 tsp baking soda


    In an electric mixer, cream together the butter, sugar and the brown sugar. Add the eggs one at a time. Add the melted chocolate and mix until well incorporated. Scrape the bowl. Add the vanilla and half of the buttermilk. Add the flour and baking soda, mix and finish with the remainder of the buttermilk. Mix until well incorporated. Scoop into baking cups and bake at 350F for about 20 minutes.

    Whipped Chocolate Ganache

    100 grams heavy cream
    125 grams bittersweet chocolate, finely choppe
    d

    Bring the heavy cream to a boil and pour over the chocolate. Mix slowly starting from the center until all incorporated and creamy. Let it cool completely for about an hour. Whip until thick.

    Hope you are having a great weekend!

Post Title

Weekend Baking


Post URL

http://mercymadame.blogspot.com/2009/02/weekend-baking.html


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Of Meyer Lemons, Souffles and Romance



    There is something exciting about a souffle. The anticipation, the perfect timing, its delicate nature... I would even say there is something romantic about a souffle. Yes, I said it, romantic. Souffle for two is romantic.

    This is a roux based souffle, which yields a super creamy interior, almost like a custard. This is the basic recipe I use always, but this time, I flavored it with limoncello and what else but meyer lemon curd. Oh yes, and some pistachio and meyer lemon shortbread cookies. It couldn't be any other way.




    It seems like souffle has been on everyone's mind this week (as seen here, here, and here). Maybe Valentine's Day being around the corner has something to do with it? I have to admit that I have never celebrated Valentine's. (I'm sorry all you dreamers and romantics out there), but all these images might have influenced me a bit.

    So can you share with me, does souffle speak of romance to you?



    Meyer Lemon and Pistachio Shortbread

    110 grams butter
    30 grams powdered sugar
    Zest of 1 large or 2 small meyer lemons
    1 Tbs meyer lemon juice
    140 grams flour
    2 grams fine sea salt
    30 grams pistachios, chopped


    Cream the butter and powdered sugar until light. Add the zest and juice and mix. Add the flour and salt and mix until combined. Add the chopped pistachios and finish mixing.

    Roll dough into a log that is about 2" in diameter. Refrigerate the dough for 2 hours.

    Cut the dough into disks that are about 1/4"-1/2" thick. Bake at 350F for about 10 minutes or until lightly golden.

    Lemon Curd

    100 grams eggs
    35 grams sugar
    100 grams meyer lemon juice
    Zest of 1 meyer lemon
    10 grams butter, room temperature


    In a bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar, juice and zest. Cook this mixture in a double boiler until it thickens (84C).

    Strain into a clean bowl and chill it over an ice bath until it is about body temperature. Add the room temperature butter and mix with a hand blender until an emulsion is form (it will turn a bit lighter in color). Refrigerate until ready to use.

    Meyer Lemon Souffle

    90 grams butter
    110 grams bread flour
    400 ml whole milk
    4 egg yolks
    4 egg whites
    90 grams sugar
    125 grams lemon curd
    15 grams of limoncello
    Butter, room temperature
    Sugar


    In a medium saucepan, melt the butter. Add the bread flour and cook for about 2 minutes to make a roux. Add the hot milk and whisk It will thicken to a paste. Transfer this mixture to a clean bowl. Using a wooden spoon or spatula, continue mixing the roux base to cool it down slightly before we add the egg yolkd. When steam stops coming off but it is still warm, add the egg yolks one a time and mix.

    In the meantime, start whipping the egg whites. When they are medium peaks, start adding the sugar slowly. Whip to stiff peaks.

    Add the lemon curd and limoncello to the roux and egg yolk base. Fold in a third of the meringue to the base and mix to lighten it. Add the rest of the meringue and fold gently.

    Brush inside of ramekins with room temperature butter and coat the sides with sugar. Fill the ramekins with souffle base almost to the top.

    Bake at 400F for about 15 minutes depending on the size of the ramekin.

Post Title

Of Meyer Lemons, Souffles and Romance


Post URL

http://mercymadame.blogspot.com/2009/02/of-meyer-lemons-souffles-and-romance.html


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Baking from Memory: A Sweet Watercress Tart



    All families seem to have beloved "secret" recipes that bring them together year after year. As I live abroad and as I grow older, I have an acute sense of nostalgia for everything related to my past and my family. In my family, that secret recipe happens to be a sweet spinach tart that my grandfather used to make.

    The recipe for that tart lived only in a little notebook that a devastating flood washed away in 1983, so ever since, we have been on a quest to remake it.

    As I have mentioned here before, I come from a family of pastry chefs. My grandfather, my Aitite Angel, was an amazing chef who with eight children, opened a little pastry shop in my town in 1949 (still in the family).

    He was an apprentice in a patisserie in Bilbao at the age of 14 and most of his "repertoire" was French inspired. However, he was known to experiment and occasionally surprise everyone with new creations. This is the case of his sweet spinach tart that everyone remembers fondly. Puff pastry shell filled with a warm cinnamon and fresh spinach cream. Unusual for sure.



    The idea of trying to remake this tart myself has been roaming around my head for quite some time, but I needed more details. After speaking with several members of my family, the only details I could gather were that this tart had a chiboust-like custard made with cinnamon, spinach and a surprising ingredient, condensed milk.

    I found beautiful watercress at the market so I used that instead of the spinach. My first attempt was unexpected, sweet and delicious. Of course, I wish I could have shared it with my family to see if it resembles the tart they remember. Soon perhaps.



    These are some photos from this weekend's farmer's market where I found the most adorable family of kid farmers. Four brothers and sister (the oldest being 13) who raise their own chickens and grow their own vegetables. How cool is that! I rushed to the market before their stand was up because I didn't want to miss out on the eggs, which are known to disappear in a matter of minutes. What can I say, dreamy.

    For the puff pastry recipe, go here.

    Watercress and Cinnamon Filling

    100 grams whole milk
    1 cinnamon stick
    100 grams condensed milk
    20 grams cornstarch
    2 egg yolks
    25 grams watercress or spinach, finely chopped
    2 egg whites
    40 grams sugar
    Ground cinnamon, for the topping
    Demerara sugar, for the topping


    In a medium saucepan, cook the whole milk and the cinnamon stick together on low heat for a few minutes. Let it steep for about 15 minytes and then, bring it to a boil.

    In the meantime, whisk together the egg yolks and cornstarch until there are no lumps. Add the condensed milk and whisk.

    When the milk comes to a boil, remove the cinnamon stick and temper into the egg yolk mixture. Return this to the pan and cook until it thickens. Transfer to a clean bowl immediately. Fold in the chopped watercress or spinach.

    Right away, whip the egg whites to soft peak and sprinkle in the sugar. Continue whipping to stiff peak.

    Add a third of the meringue to the warm custard and fold. Fold in the rest of the meringue.

    Pour into the baked puff pastry shells. Sprinkle with ground cinnamon and demerara sugar.




Post Title

Baking from Memory: A Sweet Watercress Tart


Post URL

http://mercymadame.blogspot.com/2009/02/baking-from-memory-sweet-watercress.html


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