Daring Bakers, Shuna and Her Caramel Cake



    It is time once again for the monthly Daring Bakers challenge, which I am very excited about because it comes from none other than pastry chef extraordinaire, Shuna Fish Lydon. Shuna has an amazing curriculum as a pastry chef and is the voice behind the blog Eggbeater, one of my daily reads. Her blog is filled with intelligent social and culinary commentary, photography and modern poetry. I had the pleasure to meet Shuna earlier this year and got a glimpse of where her artistry comes from.

    When I learned we would be making her caramel cake for this month's challenge, I was jumping up and down with joy because this cake had so much buzz around it. This is what I would call a true American cake. Sweet, moist and buttery.




    I really wanted to be true to the recipe as it was presented to us and the only small addition was a bit of orange zest to the cake batter. I wanted to play around with the decorations in the cake and I ended up making two versions of it. The first one is surrounded by baked meringue sticks and decorated with candied orange slices and pulled caramel paper. The second one is decorated with piped buttercream dots, candied orange, chocolate shavings and poured caramel.



    All recipes by Shuna Fish Lydon

    Caramel Syrup

    2 cups sugar
    1/2 cup water
    1 cup water (for "stopping" the caramelization process)


    In a small stainless steel saucepan, with tall sides, mix water and sugar until mixture feels like wet sand. Brush down any stray sugar crystals with wet pastry brush. Turn on heat to highest flame. Cook until smoking slightly: dark amber.

    When color is achieved, very carefully pour in one cup of water. Caramel will jump and sputter about! It is very dangerous, so have long sleeves on and be prepared to step back.

    Whisk over medium heat until it has reduced slightly and feels sticky between two fingers. {Obviously wait for it to cool on a spoon before touching it.}

    Caramel Cake

    10 Tablespoons unsalted butter at room temperature
    1 1/4 Cups granulated sugar
    1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
    1/3 Cup Caramel Syrup (see recipe below)
    2 each eggs, at room temperature
    splash vanilla extract
    2 Cups all-purpose flour
    1/2 teaspoon baking powder
    1 cup milk, at room temperature


    Preheat oven to 350F. Butter one tall (2 – 2.5 inch deep) 9-inch cake pan.

    In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream butter until smooth. Add sugar and salt & cream until light and fluffy. Slowly pour room temperature caramel syrup into bowl. Scrape down bowl and increase speed. Add eggs/vanilla extract a little at a time, mixing well after each addition. Scrape down bowl again, beat mixture until light and uniform.

    Sift flour and baking powder. Turn mixer to lowest speed, and add one third of the dry ingredients. When incorporated, add half of the milk, a little at a time. Add another third of the dry ingredients, then the other half of the milk and finish with the dry ingredients. {This is called the dry, wet, dry, wet, dry method in cake making. It is often employed when there is a high proportion of liquid in the batter.}

    Take off mixer and by hand, use a spatula to do a few last folds, making sure batter is uniform. Turn batter into prepared cake pan.

    Place cake pan on cookie sheet or 1/2 sheet pan. Set first timer for 30 minutes, rotate pan and set timer for another 15-20 minutes. Your own oven will set the pace. Bake until sides pull away from the pan and skewer inserted in middle comes out clean. Cool cake completely before icing it.

    Cake will keep for three days outside of the refrigerator.

    Caramelized Butter Frosting

    12 tablespoons unsalted butter
    1 pound confectioner’s sugar, sifted
    4-6 tablespoons heavy cream
    2 teaspoons vanilla extract
    2-4 tablespoons caramel syrup
    Kosher or sea salt to taste


    Cook butter until brown. Pour through a fine meshed sieve into a heatproof bowl, set aside to cool.

    Pour cooled brown butter into mixer bowl.

    In a stand mixer fitted with a paddle or whisk attachment, add confectioner's sugar a little at a time. When mixture looks too chunky to take any more, add a bit of cream and or caramel syrup. Repeat until mixture looks smooth and all confectioner's sugar has been incorporated. Add salt to taste.

    Note: Caramelized butter frosting will keep in fridge for up to a month.
    To smooth out from cold, microwave a bit, then mix with paddle attachment until smooth and light

    A big thank you to Dolores of Chronicles in Culinary Curiosity, Alex of Brownie of the Blondie and Brownie duo and Jenny of Foray into Food for hosting this month's challenge. Please visit other Daring Bakers to see other interpretations of this cake.

Post Title

Daring Bakers, Shuna and Her Caramel Cake


Post URL

http://mercymadame.blogspot.com/2008/11/daring-bakers-shuna-and-her-caramel.html


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A Pie in the Making and a Happy Thanksgiving



    We started our Thanksgiving dinner prep today by making the croutons for the stuffing, brining the turkey, making the cranberry sauce and rolling out the pie dough for the pumpkin pie. For me, the anticipation is the most exciting part of the whole thing. I love prep work and organizing every single step in my head.

    We picked out some fresh flowers today called "wax flowers" for our table setting. We are using recycled spice jars as vases and placing them next to each person. I love little details.



    I hope you have a great Thanksgiving!


Post Title

A Pie in the Making and a Happy Thanksgiving


Post URL

http://mercymadame.blogspot.com/2008/11/pie-in-making-and-happy-thanksgiving.html


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Salted Chocolate, Peanut and Pistachio Nougat Ice Cream



    I don't know about you, but the cooler weather always makes me crave chocolate. I am naturally a person that prefers fruit desserts over chocolate, but as soon as temperatures start to drop, all I can think about is having a piece of dark chocolate. I was writing down dessert menu ideas recently and I realized chocolate and nuts were in almost every single item that was roaming around in my head and this salted chocolate ice cream with chocolate, pistachio and peanut nougat pieces was one of them.

    This nougat is a softer version than the turron I grew up eating as a child around Christmas time. It is more like the Toblerone filling, but with chunkier nuts in it. How delicious does that sound? I used acacia honey along with salted pistachios and peanuts. I made a large batch and used part of it as a mix-in for a dark chocolate ice cream. If this doesn't satisfy your chocolate craving, I don't know what will.




    A few months ago, I had someone ask me why everything has to have the word "salted" in front to sound trendy. I disagreed. Maybe the word itself was not used as often before, but salt has always been a great compliment for caramel, chocolate and nuts. It has always been there in many recipes and formulations, but perhaps wasn't noted in the name. So I do not think this is a trend, but a way to enhance a flavor and it will continue to be.



    Chocolate Nougat

    290 grams sugar
    90 grams glucose
    120 grams water
    310 grams good-quality honey (I used acacia)
    100 grams egg whites
    20 grams sugar
    pinch of cream of tartar
    260 grams unsweetened chocolate, melted
    250 grams salted and roasted pistachios
    250 grams salted and roasted peanuts


    It's best to work on a marble slab but if you don't have one, a large wood block will do. Set up a sheet of parchment paper in between two candy rulers (if available, if not it's ok). Lightly dust the parchment with cocoa powder.

    Spread the peanuts and pistachios on a sheetpan and keep warm in a 250F oven until ready to use.

    Place the egg whites and the cream of tartar in the bowl of an electric mixer with the whip attachment. Start whipping the egg whites on low speed while we proceed with the rest of the ingredients.

    In a medium saucepan, mix the sugar and the water until it resemble wet sand. Brush the sides of the pan with water to dissolve any sugar particles that are left. Turn on the heat and when it starts to lightly boil, add the glucose. Continue cooking the sugar on high until it reaches 155C.

    At the same time, pour the honey into a small pan and boil. When it almost reaches a first boil, turn the electric mixer on high and let the egg whites get foamy and fully whipped. Continue boiling the honey until it reaches 120C. The honey will really bubble up and foam up at this point.

    When the egg whites are whipped, add the 20 grams of sugar and continue whipping on high for another minute or so until it develops more body. Then, turn the machine to medium speed and slowly pour in the 120C honey from the side of the bowl. Turn the machine back to high speed and continue whipping the egg whites until the sugar syrup reaches 155C. Then turn speed back to low and pour this sugar syrup into the meringue slowly on the side of the bowl. When all the sugar has been incorporated, turn back to high speed and whip for another 5 minutes.

    After the 5 minutes, turn the mixer down to low speed and add the melted unsweetened chocolate. Turn speed higher and whip for another minute or so.

    Remove bowl from mixer and add the warm peanuts and pistachios. Fold with a spatula. Spread the nougat in between the candy bars on top of the parchment. Spread with an offset spatula to even it out. Let it cool a bit. Cover with another sheet of parchment or silicon mat and let it set for 24 hours.

    Chocolate Nougat Ice Cream

    500 ml heavy cream
    250 ml whole milk
    25 grams cocoa powder
    150 grams sugar
    5 grams sea salt
    100 grams egg yolks
    125 grams 70% chocolate, chopped
    150 grams chocolate nougat, chopped into small pieces


    Place the chopped chocolate in a large bowl and set aside.

    In a medium saucepan, combine milk, cream, salt, half of the sugar and cocoa powder. Whisk and bring to a boil.

    In the meantime, place the egg yolks and the other half of the sugar in a large bowl. Whisk the egg yolks and sugar together. Temper the cream mixture over the egg yolks and whisk. Return this mixture to the saucepan and cook to 82C or until it coats the back of the spoon.

    Pour this custard over the chopped chocolate and whisk until it is all incorporated and melted. Strain this ice cream base through a fine sieve into a clean bowl and chill over an ice bath. Refrigerate overnight.

    The following day, churn the ice cream base in the ice cream machine and when it is done, fold in the chocolate nougat pieces. Pour into container and freeze.

    Note: Something I never mention about ice cream and that is very important, is to have your ice cream container (where you will store your churned ice cream) in the freezer before hand. This way, when your churned ice cream hits the container, it stays frozen. If this container were at room temperature, your ice cream would start to melt, losing the air that was incorporated during the churn.

Post Title

Salted Chocolate, Peanut and Pistachio Nougat Ice Cream


Post URL

http://mercymadame.blogspot.com/2008/11/salted-chocolate-peanut-and-pistachio.html


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Anita Chu's "Field Guide to Cookies"



    Today, I am very, very excited to share with you these wonderful cookies from Anita Chu's "Field Guide to Cookies: How to Identify and Bake Virtually Every Cookie Imaginable". As you know, Anita is the mastermind behind Dessert First, one of the most popular food blogs today. She approaches the classics with a modern and sophisticated touch and her photography is simple, clean and very evoking. And this book follows very much her style.

    The first thing that surprised me when I read through "Field Guide to Cookies" was the amount of recipes and photos that were in it given its small size. It is a pocket book but features over 100 recipes and photographs. Really a well written cookie recipe book. I walked into Barnes and Noble on Monday to find this book on the shelves next to established pastry chefs and food writers. I was so proud Anita!




    During the holiday season, I really like to bake for friends and family. Cookies make such great homemade gifts and I took this opportunity to review Anita's book to start thinking about what cookies I will be making for the holidays this year. Certainly a few out of this book like these chocolate crinkles, rosemary and parmesan biscotti and my favorites, raspberry linzer cookies.



    For the chocolate crinkles I used 72% chocolate which made them really dark, bitter and rich. I love how these cookies look too, the contrast of black and white.

    Chocolate Crinkles

    adapted from "Field Guide to Cookies"


    6 oz semisweet chocolate, chopped
    1/4 cup plus 2 Tbs unsalted butter, softened
    1/2 cup sugar
    2 eggs
    1 tsp vanilla extract
    1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
    2 Tbs cocoa powder
    3/4 tsp baking powder
    1/4 tsp salt
    confectioners sugar for rolling


    Melt chocolate and butter over a double boiler. Remove from heat and set aside.

    In the meantime, whip the eggs with the sugar until thick. Add the vanilla extract and the melted chocolate and mix.

    Sift flour, cocoa powder, salt and baking powder into a bowl and add this to the chocolate mixture. Mix until combined.

    Place this bowl in the refrigerator for about 2 hours until the dough hardens enough to scoop out.

    Preheat oven to 325F. Scoop one inch balls. Roll these in powdered sugar and place them on sheetpans lined with parchment paper. Flatten the tops of the cookies a bit with your fingers and bake until set for about 12 minutes.



    Rosemary and Parmesan Biscotti

    adapted from "Field Guide to Cookies"

    1 3/4 cup all purpose flour
    1/2 tsp salt
    1/4 tsp ground pepper
    1 tsp baking powder
    2 springs fresh rosemary, chopped
    3 1/2 Tbs freshly grated parmesan
    2 eggs
    3 Tbs unsalted butter, melted


    Preheat oven to 350F. In the bowl of a mixer, combine the first six ingredients. In a bowl, lightly whisk the eggs and the melted butter and add to the dry ingredients. Mix until combined.

    Divide the dough into two and roll each half into a log that is 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Place the logs on a sheetpan lined with parchment bout 5 inches apart. Flatten the logs a bit and bake for about 30 minutes until lightly golden.

    Let them cool completely and cut with a serrated knife into individual biscotti that are about 1/2 inch wide. Place them on the same sheetpan and bake at 250F for another 30 minutes until dry.



    Linzer Cookies

    adapted from "Field Guide to Cookies"

    1 1/4 cups almonds
    2 3/4 cups all purpose flour
    1 tsp cinnamon
    1/4 tsp ground cloves
    1/4 tsp ground cardamon
    1/2 tsp baking powder
    1/4 tsp salt
    1 cup unsalted butter, softened
    1/2 cup sugar
    1 egg
    1/2 cup raspberry jam
    Powdered sugar for dusting tops


    Finely grind the almonds with the flour in a food processor. Combine this mixture with the spices, salt and baking powder.

    Cream the butter and sugar together. add the egg and mix. Scrape the bowl and add the dry ingredients. Mix until combined.

    Turn the dough on a clean surface and flatten to a rectangle that is about 1 inch thick. Wrap in plastic wrap and let it rest in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours.

    Roll the dough to about 1/16" thick. Sometimes these doughs tend to get soft easy so tpicking up the cut out dough and manipulating it too much can result in deformed cookies. To avoid that, I tend to roll the dough on a silicon mat so it is easy to transfer to the refrigerator if I need to. Once dough is rolled, cut with desired cookie cutters and place on sheetpan lined with parchment. Using a small cutter, cut a shape out of half of the cookies which will be the tops. Refrigerate the cookies for an hour before baking.

    Preheat oven to 350F. Bake for approximately 8 minutes. Let the cookies cool completely.

    To assemble, dust the tops with powdered sugar. Pipe a little bit of raspberry jam on bottom cookies and place the top on the jam, applying a bit of pressure so the cookies stick.



    I hope you go out to your bookstores today and take a look at this great book and please visit the following blogs to read this book's reviews, interviews with Anita and other great recipes.Thanks Anita for sharing this book with us!

    Nov. 11th - Jen of Use Real Butter
    Nov. 12th - Ari of Baking and Books
    Nov. 13th - Sara of Ms. Adventures in Italy
    Nov. 14th - Ivonne of Cream Puffs in Venice
    Nov. 17th - Helen of Tartelette
    Nov. 18th - Veronica of Veronica's Test Kitchen
    Nov. 19th - Cannelle et Vanille
    Nov. 20th - Bea of La Tartine Gourmande
    Nov. 21st - Peabody of Culinary Concoctions by Peabody

    And I also have to thank the lovely Suann from Simplesong for printing these cute cookie boxes for me!

Post Title

Anita Chu's "Field Guide to Cookies"


Post URL

http://mercymadame.blogspot.com/2008/11/anita-chu-guide-to-cookies.html


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How to Explain Cranberries



    This will be the first year since I have been living in the US that my parents will get to spend Thanksgiving with us. It's very exciting to be able to share a holiday meal with them. I grew up in a large family where holidays and gatherings revolved around food. We always had at least thirty people around the table. Space was always an issue but it never stopped us. Improvised tables, mismatched silverware, borrowed chairs. It was all fine as long as we could all be together, elbow to elbow. So this year, I am really going to sit at the Thanksgiving table, take time to enjoy the moment and be thankful for their company.

    As my mom and I sat down to write down the Thanksgiving dinner menu, I realized how most of the traditional American holiday dishes are foreign to my parents' palates. Roasted turkey, stuffing, yams with marshmallows or cranberries. They have never tasted any of those. I have to admit I am not very fond of the cranberry jellies and compotes served at many dinner tables, but I really wanted my mom to try a new berry, something she had never had before.



    Warm fruit crisps are always a comforting dessert and my mom happens to love cooked apples in any way, shape or form. So I combined sweet apples with tart cranberries and spicy candied ginger and topped it all with pistachio and almond crumble. And because us Europeans really enjoy fruit compotes in jars (check out these lovely ladies here and here), I made her a little cranberry and orange compote to go with a quick white chocolate mousse. I am not much of a white chocolate fan unless it is accompanied by something tart and sour to balance out the sweetness so I barely added any sugar to the cranberry compote.

    Cranberry, Apple and Candied Ginger Crumble

    100 grams fresh cranberries
    2 golden delicious apples, peeled, cored and medium diced
    100 grams sugar
    5 grams candied ginger, small dice
    Zest of an orange
    Juice of half an orange
    Pistachio and almond crumble (use half ground pistachios and half ground almonds)


    In a bowl, combine the fresh cranberries, diced apples, diced ginger, sugar, orange zest and orange juice. Mix gently and let the fruit sit in the bowl for a few minutes until the sugar starts to lightly dissolve with the juices.

    Place 4 small ramekins on a sheetpan. Spoon the fruit filling into the ramekins and top with some pistachio and almond crumble. Bake at 350F for about 30 minutes or until the fruit starts to bubble over and the crumble is golden brown. If the topping starts to get dark but the fruit is not cooked yet, cover the ramekins with aluminum foil so it doesn't burn and continue cooking.

    Cranberry Orange Compote

    100 grams fresh cranberries
    20 grams sugar
    Zest of half an orange


    Combine the cranberries, sugar and orange zest in a small saucepan and cook for about 10 minutes until cranberries pop open. You can serve it like this or puree it with a hand blended or food processor (which I did). Spoon the compote into the glass jars and let it cool.

    Quick White Chocolate Mousse

    150 grams heavy cream, soft peak
    75 grams white chocolate, chopped


    Place the white chocolate in a bowl and melt it over a double boiler. Remove the bowl from the heat when the chocolate is melted and let it cool slightly.

    In the meantime, whip the cream to soft peak. Pour a third of the whipped cream into the chocolate and whisk. Pour this mixture over the rest of the whipped cream and gently fold not to overmix it.

    Place the mousse in a pastry bag and pipe into the glass jars on top of the cooled cranberry compote. Return jars to refrigerator to cool completely and until the mousse hardens a bit more. Serve with white chocolate shavings.


Post Title

How to Explain Cranberries


Post URL

http://mercymadame.blogspot.com/2008/11/how-to-explain-cranberries.html


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Montblanc and the First Chestnuts of the Season



    This week we roasted the first chestnuts of the season. I have been feeling a bit under the weather and I needed something comforting and nothing says comfort like roasted chestnuts do. Besides, now that my parents are here, any excuse is a good one to cook, bake and snack. We are a bunch of non-stop grazers.




    Montblancs are popular in France, but I had never tasted one until my French chef asked me to make some for Christmas brunch a few years ago. I fell in love with the chestnut cream and ever since, I have made them every holiday season. Buttery and not overly sweet cream. I even eat it on bread as a snack when no one is looking.

    I built these on sable breton and inserted a mini chocolate mousse bombe in the center. Then the chestnut cream is piped on top with a special tip creating that spaghetti effect. How fun is that right?



    Chestnut Cream

    100 grams unsweetened chestnut puree
    100 grams chestnut paste or chestnut cream
    200 grams unsalted butter, softened
    1 tsp vanilla extract
    1 Tbs dark rum


    Cream together the chestnut puree and chestnut paste until smooth. Add the softened butter, vanilla extract and rum and mix. Press the cream through a fine sieve to remove any large chestnut puree chunks. Place the cream in a piping bag with a "spaghetti" tip and pipe the cream on top of the breton and chocolate mousse dome.

    This is best served slightly at room temperature so the chestnut cream doesn't harden too much.

    On another note, I am very flattered that Ez of Creature Comforts wanted to feature an interview with me in her blog. She is such an inspiration. Thank you Ez!

Post Title

Montblanc and the First Chestnuts of the Season


Post URL

http://mercymadame.blogspot.com/2008/11/montblanc-and-first-chestnuts-of-season.html


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Brioche, Burnt Milk Ice Cream and a Decadent Breakfast



    In my family, we are known to indulge on breakfast once in a while. My grandfather was a man who enjoyed food. He liked to eat and he liked those around him to eat well. Because in the bakery work started around 4am, by the time doors opened around 9am and us children would go in, there were always eggs cooking, cheese, anchovies and so on. Worked stopped for a few minutes to enjoy a big breakfast in peace with a little cafe con leche and maybe a quick glance at the morning newspaper. I also clearly remember Christmas morning with cream cake and champagne. So big and sweet breakfasts are a tradition I have inherited.

    During this last trip home, we drove all the way to San Sebastian partly to visit Galparsoro Okindegia. This little bakery located in the Parte Vieja (Old Town) has quickly become the most popular bread bakery in the Basque Country, supplying bread to all the Michelin Star restaurants such as Mugaritz, Martin Berasategui and more. They are known for their organic bread, but it was the brioche that stole my heart. It was buttery, tender, pulled away like a feather. Unreal.

    It is moments like these when I am really inspired to create a dessert. I immediately thought of tostadas de pan (pain perdu or French Toast) with cinnamon and vanilla and paired with a burnt milk ice cream. This might sound like an unusual ice cream but it really represents very well the smells of a pastry kitchen. Slightly burnt and caramelized milk. It is unforgettable.



    I have made brioche many times before and it is a favorite in my household. I have found that although most recipes tend to have the same ratio of ingredients, the procedures are often times different and in some cases elaborate. I am always intrigued by technique, so I set out to try a new recipe for brioche that I had not tried before. This time out of Rose Levy Beranbaum's "The Bread Bible".

    The burnt milk ice cream is very light and it never really thickened much in the ice cream machine but once frozen, it was very, very silky. I suppose it resembles more a gelato than an ice cream since it contains mostly whole milk and just a small amount of heavy cream.



    Basic Brioche

    adapted from "The Bread Bible"


    This dough takes between 24 and 48 hours to complete so have this in mind before starting. You will need a baking pan that is about 8"x4".

    Dough Starter

    30 grams water, at room temperature
    13 grams sugar
    1/4 tsp instant yeast
    70 grams unbleached all purpose flour
    1 large egg


    Combine all ingredients in the bowl of an electric mixer. Whip this mixture with a whisk by hand for about 3 minutes until a thick batter forms. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap while getting the following ingredients ready.

    Flour Mixture

    155 grams unbleached all purpose flour
    25 grams sugar
    4 grams instant yeast
    3 grams salt
    2 large eggs, cold
    113 grams unsalted butter, at room temperature (very soft)


    In a bowl, whisk the flour, sugar and instant yeast. Add the salt and mix. Sprinkle this flour mixture on top of the dough starter that is already in the mixer bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let this ferment at room temperature for about 1 1/2-2 hours. The dough starter might bubble in between the flour mixture and this is fine.

    After this period of fermentation, transfer the bowl to the mixer. Add the 2 cold eggs and mix the dough with the dough hook for a couple of minutes in low speed until ingredients are well combined. Stop the mixer and scrape the sides of the bowl. Mix in medium to high speed for another 5 minutes until dough is silky.

    Add the soft butter one tablespoon at a time and wait until the butter has been absorbed by the dough before adding the next tablespoon. The dough will be very sticky but don't add any flour.

    Transfer the dough to a clean bowl that has been slightly greased. Cover with plastic wrap and let it ferment at room temperature for another 1 1/2-2 hours.

    After this time, refrigerate the dough for an hour. Deflate the dough with a spatula and mix slightly. Cover the bowl again with plastic wrap and let it sit in the refrigerator for another hour.

    Remove bowl from refrigerator and transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface. Deflate the dough with your hands and form a rectangle. The size of the rectangle doesn't really matter. Give it a letter fold. Turn the dough 90 degrees and give it another letter fold. Wrap the dough with plastic wrap and insert it in a large freezer bag. Refrigerate the dough for at least 6 hours or up to 2 days.

    Remove dough from refrigerator. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and form a rectangle that is about 8"x5". Roll the dough forming a log. Seal the ends tightly with the palms of your hands. Place the dough in a lightly greased rectangular mold (8"x4") seam side down. Cover with plastic wrap and let it ferment for another 2 hours at room temperature.

    Have the oven preheated to 350F for about 30 minutes prior to baking the brioche. When dough has doubled in size and has reached the top of the mold, brush with an egg glaze made with yolk and heavy cream. Cut the top of the dough with a sharp knife leaving about an inch on each side.

    Bake in the preheated oven in a lower rack for approximately 35 minutes.

    Burnt Milk Ice Cream

    adapted from "Frozen Desserts"

    900 grams whole milk
    70 grams heavy cream
    160 grams sugar
    70 grams egg yolks


    In a pan with tall sides, heat the whole milk with a quarter of the sugar in medium to high heat. The milk will start to stick to the bottom of the pan and may bubble up. This is fine and will give the milk its distinct flavor. If the milk starts to bubble over the pan, remove from heat and let the bubbles deflate. When it starts to smell like burnt milk, remove from heat and measure out 750 grams of the liquid.

    In a separate bowl, whisk together the yolks, remaining sugar and heavy cream. Temper the hot milk into the base and whisk. Transfer the custard to a medium size pan and cook to 82C. Because there is not as much fat as in a creme anglaise, the custard will never really thicken or achieve the "nappe" so go by temperature.

    Strain through a fine sieve into a clean bowl and chill in an ice bath. Refrigerate overnight and churn in ice cream machine.

Post Title

Brioche, Burnt Milk Ice Cream and a Decadent Breakfast


Post URL

http://mercymadame.blogspot.com/2008/11/brioche-burnt-milk-ice-cream-and.html


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Membrillo... Finally



    Last week, I told you about my quince fiasco. I am not one to go back to the store and ask for a refund, but I couldn't let this one pass, mostly because I really wanted the produce manager to know what had happened. I went back the following day and noticed they still had some of the same batch of quince on their shelf. I spoke to the manager and told him what had happened. I asked him if he could cut one open for me and so he did. It was instantly obvious these were really old and had to be removed from the shelves. Embarrassed, he quickly apologized and promised he would have some fresh ones waiting for me at the store the following day, free of charge, of course. And so he did and they were triple the price they had been just a day prior, but this time, perfect.

    Membrillo or quince paste is a very traditional component served to accompany cheeses in Spain. It is a thick confiture made simply with quince and sugar that resembles more pate de fruit than a jam or a jelly. This time, I made little baked crackers made with some Idiazabal cheese I brought back from my trip.

    One of my earliest memories as a child is of me trying to ingest a crusty baguette with cheese and membrillo inside while I had a sore throat. I loved this bocadillo so much that I was willing to put myself through such misery!



    Membrillo

    4 large quinces
    Juice of 1 lemon
    Sugar (same amount as pureed quince)


    Peel, core and quarter the quince. Cut the quarters in half. Place the cut quince in a bowl with lemon juice to stop it from oxidizing.

    Place the quince in a large pot and cover them with cold water. bring this water to a boil and cook the quince until fork tender for about 20 minutes.

    Drain the water out and puree the soft quince. Scale the puree. You will need the same amount of sugar as puree. In my case it was about 1100 grams.

    Place the puree and sugar in a large pot and start cooking it in medium heat. When the sugar melts and it starts to get hot, it will bubble up and might burn so be very, very careful when stirring. wear gloves if necessary. Turn the heat down a bit but make sure there are still small bubbles forming. Cook this mixture for about an hour or an hour and a half. We want the sugar to caramelize. The color will start to turn into a deep orange.

    Transfer the membrillo, which will be a thick paste, into a quarter sheetpan lined with parchment and let it cool. Store at room temperature covered with plastic wrap.

    Idiazabal Cheese Crackers

    Cut thin slices of the cheese and cut these into squares. Place the cheese on a sheetpan lined with a silicon mat and bake at 350F for about 12 minutes until lightly golden.

    On another note, Cakespy just featured some of my photos and a fun interview. If you are interested in knowing a bit more about me, go check it out.

Post Title

Membrillo... Finally


Post URL

http://mercymadame.blogspot.com/2008/11/membrillo-finally.html


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Pumpkin and Pistachio Baked Alaska



    Baked alaska definitely has a nostalgic and even kitschy sentiment in my mind. I have many childhood memories of eating baked alaska at the restaurant where my family always celebrated our gatherings. Plaid tablecloths and 80s decor come to mind when I think back at those times. All the kids always looked forward to dessert just so we could watch the waiter burn the meringue tableside. It was almost like anticipation before watching fireworks in the summer.




    This is another one of my leftover series creations. I always have fun taking leftover components and creating new desserts from them. Here are some baked alaskas filled with pumpkin ice cream and pistachio joconde and covered with snow white Italian meringue. I also wanted to finish the gingerbread sugar dough by creating these sandwich cookies that are filled with roasted apple buttercream.



    Do you ever feel like you need time to recuperate from the weekend? We had a great one and I hope you did too!

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Pumpkin and Pistachio Baked Alaska


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http://mercymadame.blogspot.com/2008/11/pumpkin-and-pistachio-baked-alaska.html


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